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Update on 120# yew warbow - I don't like to complain, but...
WillS:
--- Quote from: PatM on December 17, 2013, 02:13:51 pm ---Square up the belly side. I'm not sure why you think a vice won't hold a curved piece of wood. You can always rasp a flat on the sides you want the vice to grip.
A working splice seems like an iffy thing though.
--- End quote ---
Well I don't actually have a vice... I just have an old workmate bench which won't grip at all.
As for the working splice, I would have been inclined to agree with you and Del and reinforce it, but since I've seen a 160# spliced yew bow with a full compass tiller and plenty of movement in the middle I don't think it's necessary. I also dislike handles on yew bows, so would want the splice area as clean and tidy as possible.
WillS:
Right. Horn nocks Mark II are on, and look much safer. String is sorted - made a new Flemish twist with much tighter twists and everything's holding beautifully. I need help from the experts on this tiller however. The reflexed limb is still throwing my eye off, as I just don't have enough experience to know how it's gonna look at full draw.
Here's the bow pulled to 18" and it's sitting at 90lbs, so I've got enough to play with. Both images are the same, the bottom is flipped.
The target weight is somewhere between 115 and 120, and with it being 90#@18 the projected draw weight should be somewhere around 140 or 150 so there's room to adjust the tiller.
To my eyes, the right limb (top pic) is stiff, but it has that awkward slope into recurve at the end and has a bit of reflex along the whole limb so I don't want to remove too much wood just to match the other one, only to find it weak at full draw.
Is the other limb looking ok? If it is the right limb that needs weakening, do I want to remove along the whole limb, or is there a part that isn't bending properly, because I can't see it if there is! Part of me wants to remove wood in the outer 3rd of the right limb (top pic) but that's exactly where the recurve is greatest, and that seems too obvious...
toomanyknots:
Nice to see you are still working on this bow! Now I know it is obvious I ain't no expert, :), but I always tiller a bow to look like I think a bow should look when tillering, regardless of reflexed or deflexed limbs. Sometimes this can lead to a bow with an excellent tiller to the eye at fulldraw, but you will tell that one limb is stronger than the other (more than typical), despite the perfect looking tiller. But when that is the case, I just adjust the arrow pass to be in the spot where the bow is even and balanced when drawing, that is how I take care of that one anyway. As for the pictures, I think it looks good to me, I would honestly bring the stiffer limb around a bit with some scrapes to match the weaker one though. But that is me. Be sure to catch hinges early on, pull the bow and see how it is working, etc. If you keep pulling, does it start to bend in one spot more than the other?, etc. Looking good though, can't wait to see it finished up!
WillS:
Cheers mate! I ain't giving up on this one. It's been really unpleasant from start to finish haha! I've never wanted to just chuck a bow away and leave it in the corner so badly. I'll get that right limb moving a bit more then.
Any particular area you'd work on personally? I'm thinking just past the handle area and into the last 3rd.
toomanyknots:
I would get just the outer limb of the stiff limb, the right one in the first picture bending just a bit more to match the other limb.
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