Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Update on 120# yew warbow - I don't like to complain, but...
Marc St Louis:
Actually to my eyes it's the left limb, top pic, that needs work just outside of center.
WillS:
Well that's just awkward...!
Right, so I'll get the tips moving a bit more, take some off the non-reflexed limb just outside of center (around the two dark spots that are actually knots I'm assuming Marc?) and bring it a bit further. I'll post some pics of that progress!
Cheers guys, appreciate the help!
toomanyknots:
--- Quote from: Del the cat on January 07, 2014, 05:15:21 pm ---When in doubt leave it be
--- End quote ---
The best tillering advice anyone has ever given anyone... ever. :) I can use this advice maybe 7 or 8 times every time I tiller a bow, ;D.
WillS:
Ok so it's done, pretty much. It's been right up to 30" with full brace height and just needs some tweaking. Still over weight at around 135#. Trouble is, I'm super disappointed at the amount of set it took in the last stages. It was looking really straight and had almost no set until about 25" draw length and suddenly took on around 2" of string follow, all in the last part of the non-reflexed limb. It hasn't even been shot in yet!
I wonder if starting out with one limb heavily reflexed put undue stress on the straight limb? The reflexed limb would have been resisting movement while the straight limb was doing most of the work?
It also has the ugliest brace shape I've ever seen on a bow which doesn't make me feel much better! Bit of a failure all round in my opinion, but then we are our harshest critics...
I'll post some pics if I can bring myself to look at it again later...!
toomanyknots:
You could probably at least fix the braced profile look of it. The bow might be unbalanced, or it might be balanced, but just not look it due to one limb being reflexed and one limb not being reflexed. You might need to weaken the reflexed limb a bit still, I would guess if the deflexed limb is taking more set or bending more. Like I said, in a situation like this I will tiller the bow to look and bend like we think a bow should look and bend, and then if it doesn't draw balanced from the typical arrow pass location (I do 1/2" above center), I just adjust the arrow pass location until it draws smooth and balanced in the hand. I'm not saying it's the right thing to do, but it's just how I have come to deal with this. I think the fact that you repaired this bow and have it pulling 135# is a dam feat and that alone I think should make this a major success!
EDIT: And with one of my personal bows (not one I am going to give away) if a bow has 2" set and still shoots good, I am still happy. You might be able to heat treat it out too, but I have no experience there to give any advice.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version