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Update on 120# yew warbow - I don't like to complain, but...
toomanyknots:
--- Quote from: WillS on January 23, 2014, 08:48:49 pm ---
Haha! Cheers dude. This bow has been literally the most unpleasant thing I've ever worked on - I've never been so frustrated in my life I don't think. But I guess we've all been there - bows seem to have a tendency to go that way. Still, I'm KINDA looking forward to that relief when this thing hits 32" and doesn't go bang. Thanks for all your help mate.
--- End quote ---
Yes, do get the right limb to come around before you hit 32". Just little by little, and exercise it a lot to work the limb in after removing material.
Del the cat:
Hmmm.
All the following is just my opinion... feel free to throw tins of tuna at me :laugh:.
All well and good saying the right tip looks stiff, but if it started out with reflex then it's already bending as much as the other tip.
Its tricky to measure the deflection at a point.
Maybe tape a bit of arrow shaft or some such to the limbs at 10" from the tip, extending right out to the tip* (mark on the shaft where the tip reaches).
Measure the gap between shaft and tip at unstrung, braced and drawn.
That way you'll see which limb tip is actually flexing most.
Or maybe tape a bit of stiff card at the 10" point extending along the far edge of the limb (against the wall), you could draw the tip curve on it.
This also illustrates why it's better to have your tiller rig with the bow fixed, you can chalk the bow curve onto the wall and see how it looks, at various deflections.
*Tape it down solid at the 10" point only so that is the reference. Might be easier to tape it to the side of the bow, maybe flatten the shaft so it sits down tight and solid at that point.
The test may show nothing or be too inconsistent, difficult to measure, but it would be interesting to see.
Alternatively stick strain gauges every 3" and wire it all up to an umpteen channel chart recorder ::)
Failing that, weaken the right tip until it breaks, then go back a bit >:D
Del
WillS:
And there was me thinking that I overthought bow making...!
I think it could move a little more, as I know the unbraced shape fairly well at this point and it's moving a lot more than it was, but the stiff looking section is still a tad longer than it needs to be. It starts out (unbraced) with a gentle slope into reflex, then kicks about 5" from the tip into almost recurve territory on a mini scale. I'm under no illusions that the very tip isn't going to do a whole lot more bending but I'm gonna get a bit more of that limb going still.
I think (hope) that just bringing the final profile taper down to the right shape at the tip will coerce that last third into doing what it should be doing. This has been really interesting regarding actually seeing how a limb is bending, versus just blindly plugging away to get the "perfect" tiller - something that always used to result in my bows coming in too light!
I like the idea of using something to physically measure how much each tip is bending though, so perhaps the card method will work.
Thanks Del. I may resort to the last option as well.
WillS:
Dilemma time. This bow is way too heavy for me at the moment - no idea what it's full draw weight is as I'm not there yet but it's clearly above my comfort zone. It's also the only bow I have that's suitable for the upcoming warbow meet in March so... Do I risk taking it down quite a bit in weight, or leave it the way it is (once it's finished) as a nice heavy bow to eventually work up to? It doesn't look like I'll be on top of it within the next month or so.
I've no interest in buying a bow, as I got into this hobby purely on the basis that I would be making everything myself, so if I decide to reduce the weight, will taking wood off all over affect the tiller much and land me back at square one, or is it safe provided I keep everything even?
I've never been in a situation where a bow I've made was too heavy...!
Del the cat:
Neither!
You find out what thebow's weight is first!
You also need to have some idea of what your maximum comfortable draw length is. The "everyone can draw 32" idea and all bows shall be weighed at 32" draw is madness... the most I can get with any vague aim is about 31". If yoy build a bow for 32" draw but only shoot it at 30" it is carrying extra mass won't perform to it's full potential.
What do you draw at the moment? That will give you some idea of what is acheivable.
Some exercises every day and pracitce will soon get you up in draw weight.
I shot 36 3D targets yesterday with a47# bow and I was tiring at the end of it, yet, with some practice and exercise I can ramp up to 100#.
STEP AWAY FROM THE BOW :laugh:
Del
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