Limb Length

[Badger]

   I agree with Pearl, something that has always kind of bugged me even though I know it doesn't make a lot of difference is that when we tiller the bow to how we draw it back with out fingers instead of tillering it to draw back straight where the arrow nock is. My logic is that when you let go of the string the arrow is the only thing holding the bow back, your fingers no longer matter. So I tiller drawing the bow back with my hook at the same place the arrow will nock and draw straight back from that point.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I do the exact same thing with my hook Steve. Out to 18-19", then its all done in hand to 27". I never see a full draw of any of my bows until they are done and posted here. That's the truth.

[Don Case]

So if I'm following and you lay the bow out symmetrically, the arrow notch(or the top of your hand) will be about 2" above center. So then when you tiller you would hook your hook on the string 2"(approx.) above center?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Yes sir. For me, I center the bows 4" handle and hook my string right under a properly placed nock point.

[Don Case]

OK! Now when the bow is finished and you're tuning it, you move the nock point up or down a bit. Is this adjusting for slight tiller differences?

[Badger]

  Yes, but you always want your nocking point at least slightly above the shelf or the point where the arrow rests on your hand. It gives a smoother release. I usually go anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" above.

[vinemaplebows]

I shoot three under, I generally lean tward a stiffer lower limb.

[Danzn Bar]

Good post.....
Don C, I always had issues like you when I first started building bows.  the first book I read was Dean Torges, Hunting the Osage Bow,  I got confused with his book and other reads.

Thanks, Pearl and Badger for some good information.

I have learned that the tree can lie to you if you don't have the support point and hook point in the same place as your hand and nock point.   I do similar to Pearl  I like to floor tiller it a bit past brace, then on the tree for six or eight more inches, then I finish the tiller with a camera and me pulling it back with a arrow marked off in inches to the final draw length.

As far as limb length if I want a stiff handle bow, and the stave is clean no knots, I start with 2.5 inches either side of center for the handle, then  1 1/2" of fades.  I start it out symmetrical until I get it to final tillering in the hand, and then decide what limb is best for the top or bottom by balance and how it feels in your hand as you pull it back. Also moving the shelf point up and down a bit until it feels balanced, learned that from Pappy.

I don't know what I'll do when my wife can't take the pictures for me.  Use a mirror I guess.

Good Luck and Happy bow building, it's a blast!
DBar