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52 inch Red Elm Short Bow

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huisme:
At the end of part five it sounds like you intend to taper the back of the bow? As in, same process as applied to the belly, but on the back?

It's been done, but it's nowhere near safe. I've reduced weight on a couple bows, including a mollegabet I've got drying right now, by removing one or two back rings to lose forty pounds after the tiller looks right, and just had to do minor adjustments thereafter. But please, try to keep a whole back ring; I really like the looks of this stave.

Also, the way I get my floor tiller is by looking at the belly rings, like you showed. It's best to be sure that the ring out of the fade doesn't taper and then bulge going into the handle as that will lead to a lot of fade bend, which makes for a whole lot of set.

I'm probably preaching to the choir, but no sense keeping quiet, right?

BowSlayer:
that's coming along nicely

4giveme:
Hi huisme,
Thanks for the post. Love to hear things from the other side of the coin. You may see something I am missing, and that's helpful to me. I did wind up chasing two rings on the sap wood. It worked out great. I was able to get on ring from knock to knock. So all good there. She is just about to start to bend for the floor tiller. This is where it gets good, we are almost ready to steam in the d/r profile. Please keep the comments coming they are helpful. Part 6 coming soon. You you subscribed to my channel.
God bless and happy new year,
Tommy

4giveme:
Thanks BowSlayer, It looks really good, wish I the clips did it justice. :-\ I am trying to get better at editing the footage to make watching it easier.
God bless and happy new year.
Tommy

4giveme:
hi all part 6 up on youtube

Part 6- http://youtu.be/qY_JoELdTRM

thanks Tommy

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