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Hafting a plains indian war club.

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tipi stuff:
Here is an original Lakota club. If you look closely at the detail photo, you can see where the handle goes into the head. You can also see, on the top side, the stitching that attaches the flap (that goes over the top of the head) to the handle. It has that characteristic Y-shaped stitch. This one is not a fake.   Curtis

seminolewind:
Awesome yeah that link only had a somewhat helpful drawing of how the rawhide under the casing was tied and tightened on the head. This club you posted (which is bad ass and just what I wanna make) does look like the handle protrudes into the piece. Have stone clubs ever been found with a hole in the side? Or did they just butt up? I have noticed in most all of the authentic looking photos i have found that the flap is sown in a triangle on one side of the handle near the head. I can only assume that the outside rawhide is a casing to cover up the wound rawhide underneath and run the length of the handle. Do you think this is correct? One last thing where is a good place to get this rawhide that dries really hard and almost translucent? I don't want rawhide that is furry.

Thanks !

tipi stuff:
Holes in the club heads are common. There is not a spiral wrapping of rawhide below the outer casing. The outer casing is the only rawhide holding the head in place, other than a thin strip on some that goes over the head. If it has the thin strip, it will not be heavily wrapped below the casing. Many look like they have the rawhide wound around the handle, but that is just an illusion. What they have done is wrap something around the handle while the rawhide is wet, so that it leaves an impression when the rawhide dries. There are hundreds and hundreds of these original clubs in existence. The majority of them are constructed the same way.  CC

stickbender:

     If you can get a raw deer hide, or goat hide, you can make your own.  Just scrape off the hair, if it is already dry, or put it in a frame, and lace it up tight, and scrape it off, if it is not dry, and thin the thicker parts on the back, with a rough stone, or 60- 50 grit sand paper, on the underside, after it is dry. ;)  you now have real raw hide.  Draw the out line of the piece you need, and mark off even spacing for the lace holes, and use a drill and small drill bit, and then wet it, and and sew it on, and let it dry. ;)  Pappy probably can tell a better way than me, as he is the "Man" in the brain tanning, and raw hide area.   ;)

                                                                         Wayne

tipi stuff:
Goat or deer is a little thin for this. If you end up using deer, use the neck area for the part that folds over the top to secure the head. The rawhide needs to be pretty damp when it is sewn on. You can sew it with a glovers needle and a leather thimble.  CC

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