Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
I really wanted a yew warbow anyway
hankknickmeyer:
Hi Scott,
Looks like we both got excited by Mick's post on Bladesmith's Forum. I dug out my almost finished osage flat bow and have some yew staves on the way. I'll post photos when I have something to show.
Hank
ScottRoush:
--- Quote from: hankknickmeyer on January 19, 2014, 02:40:56 pm ---Hi Scott,
Looks like we both got excited by Mick's post on Bladesmith's Forum. I dug out my almost finished osage flat bow and have some yew staves on the way. I'll post photos when I have something to show.
Hank
--- End quote ---
Ha! That's great. Amazing how inspiration strikes like a lightning bolt eh!? Can't wait to see what you come up with....
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: ScottRoush on January 17, 2014, 06:49:45 pm ---Great.. thank you Del.
Yes.. mine penetrates to the sapwood. I should have explained that in the two pictures above. One shows the knot on the belly.. another shows the knot in the sapwood. Would I plug both sides?
Just curious... Once filled with epoxy/saw dust.. does the plug just become an aesthetic thing.. or does a plug of the same material as the bow behave better than the epoxy?
(edit: yes... I'm aiming for 100 pounds on this bow.. if it falls to 90 I won't be heart broken.. just a tad disappointed.)
--- End quote ---
Short answer I don't know.
Long answer, I think a plug of the same wood will be a better match in terms of compression characteristics.
An untreated knot is like having a hole in the bow with a loose bit of steel plugging it, the wood will collapse until it hits the steel and then bind up solid, thus it creates damaged wood and then overstresses it... great recipe for failure IMO.
Del
ScottRoush:
--- Quote from: Del the cat on January 20, 2014, 09:31:38 am ---
--- Quote from: ScottRoush on January 17, 2014, 06:49:45 pm ---r 100 pounds on this bow.. if it falls to 90 I won't be heart broken.. just a tad disappointed.)
--- End quote ---
Short answer I don't know.
Long answer, I think a plug of the same wood will be a better match in terms of compression characteristics.
An untreated knot is like having a hole in the bow with a loose bit of steel plugging it, the wood will collapse until it hits the steel and then bind up solid, thus it creates damaged wood and then overstresses it... great recipe for failure IMO.
Del
--- End quote ---
Thanks again Del. Does my last post make any sense? I mean... does it make any sense to attempt to profile with the knot out of the picture? I suppose it might be hard to answer given that you do not have exact coordinates of the knot. But I dunno... I guess I should just go with my gut and center that knot and fill it... I have a feeling it will be fairly small by the time I remove the belly wood....
Del the cat:
There is no right answer, until you do it and it doesn't explode. :laugh:
I'd favour a longer bow with the knot still there, but try to lay the bow out so that you loose as much knot as possible, but also so that the small hole in the sap wood doesn't end up hanging off the edge of the bow. E.G I think the best place for the sapwood hole is dead center as near the grip or tip as is possible.
If the sap wood hole worries you, it is possible to patch over it, but I think you should be ok. That's prob a last resort if you find there is a big rotten hole and the sapwood is severely compromised.
Some times I go to the trouble of filling a knot to find it's all disappeared ehren the bow is finished, but I'd rather do that than suddenly expose a pocket of rot right at the end of the process.
Del
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