Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
80" White Elm Warbow Build-along
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: Cameroo on February 08, 2014, 06:47:04 pm ---I feel quite foolish posting this, but I figure if someone else can learn from my poor example, why not?
Lesson learned? Don't use cheap nylon cord for a stringer on a 110 lb bow. I had my tiller string halfway in the groove for the bow's first brace, when the stringer snapped, causing the tiller string to pull a splinter off along the back. Lucky for me it wasn't fatal. Time to make an appropriate stringer I guess... ::)
--- End quote ---
The lesson is to glue on a temporary tip overlays for the early stages of tillering.
I learned this trick with Yew bows where the Yew sap wood is so soft.
It also means you have plenty of wood for when you want to put on horn nocks.
Del
Cameroo:
Good idea Del. Do you use CA glue to attach them? I'd sure hate to have a glue joint fail under such high tension.
Didn't make as much progress today as I had hoped, but here's a little update. It is now pulling 110 @ 24, 5.5" brace. I'm a little concerned about the tip alignment again. Most of the reflex I heated in seems to have pulled out, and some of the alignment correction seems to have reverted back as well. The string is barely tracking across the handle now. I started reducing the width of the tips today, removing wood from only the side that the string is leaning towards, in the hopes of bringing it back toward center. That helped a bit but not much.
The limbs are pretty even now, but the tiller is quite elliptical yet. Got to get those tips coming around more now.
Marc St Louis:
When you have really elastic wood it keeps some of the reflex even after you have finished tillering the bow.
A trick I use sometimes to correct string alignment, you need a solid vise and a T stick for this, is to brace the bow and set it up on the T stick at a few inches of draw. Then firmly clamp the bow in the vise and pry the offending tips sideways in whichever direction it needs to go.. Stressing the limbs with the T stick and then prying the tips over seems to set the wood. Of course you want to be extra careful when doing this
mikekeswick:
Del wrap those tempory nocks with serving thread or similar. Use the same knot to finish the whipping as you would for a string serving and then soak with superglue. They will not move then! This is how I do all my nocks for tillering as I like to have plenty of wood to play with when it comes to doing the actual nocks.
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: mikekeswick on February 10, 2014, 03:57:24 am ---Del wrap those tempory nocks with serving thread or similar. Use the same knot to finish the whipping as you would for a string serving and then soak with superglue. They will not move then! This is how I do all my nocks for tillering as I like to have plenty of wood to play with when it comes to doing the actual nocks.
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I've never had one shift, just with superglue. Mind I've only used 'em up to 130# ;)
@ Cameroo.
Using high viscosity CA and a good rubber strapping while it cures. Mind I leave the tips fairly wide early on, so there is a good big glue area.
Del
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