Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Where to cut yew
mikekeswick:
Limestone and rivers.
Walking a long way, being very persistant and knowing how to abseil have helped me.
Where in the country are you from?
tannhillman:
--- Quote from: Del the cat on March 15, 2014, 01:11:46 pm ---+1 on what WillS said.
Leave the bark on, it protects the delcate sapwwod and prevents it drying too quick.
Half or quarter the log, seal the ends. Leave 9 months, then reduce a bit, work 'em after a year.
If you have nice thin sapwood you can even tiller 'em with the cambium intact and let it pop off.. it scares the heck out of you but gives a pristine back.
Del
--- End quote ---
I'm entering this conversation a bit late .. but just wanted to make the point that if you are splitting logs when the wood is fresh (much more difficult to split when the log is seasoned) it is better to remove the bark otherwise the heartwood will dry very rapidly in comparison to the sapwood which will season much more slowly if the ends are sealed and the bark is on which can lead to checking (or worse) in the heartwood. By the way, its the inner bark (phloem) that pops off during tillering rather than the cambium which is very resilient and never comes off in my experience.
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: tannhillman on April 23, 2014, 07:16:06 pm ---
--- Quote from: Del the cat on March 15, 2014, 01:11:46 pm ---+1 on what WillS said.
Leave the bark on, it protects the delcate sapwwod and prevents it drying too quick.
Half or quarter the log, seal the ends. Leave 9 months, then reduce a bit, work 'em after a year.
If you have nice thin sapwood you can even tiller 'em with the cambium intact and let it pop off.. it scares the heck out of you but gives a pristine back.
Del
--- End quote ---
I'm entering this conversation a bit late .. but just wanted to make the point that if you are splitting logs when the wood is fresh (much more difficult to split when the log is seasoned) it is better to remove the bark otherwise the heartwood will dry very rapidly in comparison to the sapwood which will season much more slowly if the ends are sealed and the bark is on which can lead to checking (or worse) in the heartwood. By the way, its the inner bark (phloem) that pops off during tillering rather than the cambium which is very resilient and never comes off in my experience.
--- End quote ---
Maybe you are from a drier climate than the UK, but your post doesn't match my experience.
Maybe I'm misnaming the cambium... but here's a link with a pic' of how I find it cracks off. You can see the outer redish bark has been removed.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/dealing-with-dip.html
Del
tannhillman:
Hi Del
No I'm not from a drier climate , I'm from rainy old England too:). How wet or dry the climate is shouldn't make any difference in this regard.
I had a look at your pic and the piece that has popped off does look like the inner bark (phloem) layer, not the cambium. I can see the cambium layer beneath where the inner bark has come off on the pic. It's the very thin tough layer that's normally a yellowish/ sometimes light brown colour just before in the sapwood. The inner bark on a seasoned log will dry and crack off once the outer bark is removed but the cambium will remain intact. I have attached (I hope) a diagram showing the bark layers (and inner wood layers) to illustrate.
Cheers
Iain
Del the cat:
Nope, there was nothing clearly visible between the stuff that popped off and the pristine sapwood beneath it, I've used this technique a few times now and IMO it's the best way to get a perfect clean back.
I've just looked up the two terms and maybe the term Cambium has been misused and it's the Phloem... but whatever the name the effect is the same.
In the regions where it doesn't pop off there is sometimes a V thin layer, with a pinkish brown tinge which becomes more obvious with time/weathering. Maybe this is the actual Cambium, but in that case when the thicker Phloem pops off it is generally bringing the cambium with it.
I have to agree we should be exact in our description else there is a danger of spreading missinformation (which will follow us like a plague if the Paul Simon lyrics are correct ;) http://www.paulsimon.com/us/music/paul-simon/peace-river )
I shall look further into it.
Just seen your document and I think it may be wrong, and it is at best incomplete! I shall read further.
Ha, just found this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phloem it refers (in the numbered illustration to the right) to the 'bast' which interestingly is what they say is visible on some of the Mary Rose bows.
I fear we are in danger of getting bogged down by exactitude, when we both mean the fibrous inner layers between bark and sapwood.
The article says it is the Phloem which carries the nutrients (not the sapwood which your doc states), and that is what I had always believed.
After all the sapwood isn't wet and slippery, it's the layer just above it...
DAMN!
Here's an article about sugar Maple that says the sap does flow in the sapwood! http://maple.dnr.cornell.edu/produc/sapflow.htm
It appears even the academics can't agree. Or maybe I'm scan reading and missing the detail.
I shall simply call it the inner bark in future.
Think I've had enough for now... ::)
Del
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