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Tillering problems. I really think its the wood's fault, not the bowyer.
WillS:
Glad it helped a bit. Bit of heat tempering and piking and you might get a solid weight from it.
As for links - I don't have any I'm afraid. Joe Gibbs has made some for sure that weight, and I have a feeling that somebody posted years ago in here a yew longbow spliced and tillered full compass. As I'm sure you'll know, some glue types claim to be stronger than the wood itself, so provided it's glued properly you should theoretically be able to pretend it doesn't exist and just proceed as usual! Theoretically...
(Joe Gibbs isn't human, it's worth noting that. He's making 177# horsebows and flatbows at the moment. Splicing and achieving 160# would be a walk in the park for him haha!)
Goose Fletch:
Thanks for the guidance folks. So i piked an inch off the bottom first and checked it. I think its just about done... =D I can't believe it was that easy.
Now its 83" long and not at my target weight so I will have to continue trimming it. Besides that there is a lot of hand shock. I mean this thing kicks like a mule... I think I should just keep scraping mass off the limbs after gradual piking and constant retillering)
edit* i am shooting an arrow which most resembles the english standard arrow (this one is a tapered poplar shaft, 54 grams, a tip i forged myself, and 7.5" goose feathers)
too bad joe doesnt have a blog or something. =/ in the meantime I will search the various forums for more info on spliced round compass bows
WillS:
Joe doesn't even use Facebook, it would have to snow in hell before he wrote a blog haha!
On the English Warbow Society forum, he did write that he uses a single 7" Z-splice, for bows over 100# that bend in the handle. He also mentioned as above that the splice is stronger than the rest of the bow, so it's "easy" if you know what you're doing!
By the way, the arrow you've described (tapered poplar, 7.5" fletchings) is not a Standard arrow, it would fall into the category of a Livery arrow. The Livery arrow is a specification owned and designed by the English Warbow Society as the closest attainable replica of one found on the Mary Rose. It's very different to the Westminster arrow which is the only extant medieval arrow. The Standard arrow - if you were to use the BL-BS/EWBS specification created by Hugh Soar - would be 3/8" parallel shaft, 6" fletchings and a type 16 head or bodkin at a push.
However, if your arrow is 54 grams, that IS the right weight for a Standard arrow. The Livery arrow should come out at around 63 grams. I'm surprised you managed to get tapered poplar to 54 grams! That's super light even for poplar.
Anyway, that's an aside - the bow looks great! If you're getting handshock it generally means one of the tips is coming back faster than the other, resulting in an uneven snap to brace height. A few tweaks to sort out the timing of the limbs and you should be good.
Goose Fletch:
gahh. seriously, you archers who are right at the source of cooperative experimentation should consider getting him to do a couple articles :P any glue recommendations?
i see, so basically a light livery arrow is what ive got.. as for the arrow, hah not sure what i did wrong ;) this 54 gram one was a particularly low density shaft, 31" long, very soft spine, and the lightest in the batch of 40 shafts, so that could be it. the next half dozen that are about to be made into arrows have much denser grain. at 32" long they each weigh 45 grams, and with the rest of the arrow parts, they should come out to between 60 or 65 grams. should be pretty fun soon.
thanks. uneven snap! I'll follow up with the final product and some specs soon! cheers
WillS:
That's a gorgeous head - is that one you forged yourself? It's a spitting image of the Type 10s made by Milos Lasky or Mark Stretton. Perfect for a Standard arrow in fact if the socket was 3/8 ;)
As a point of interest, for those tapered poplar arrows, the head wants to be a Tudor bodkin (in fact, the only way a Livery arrow can be allowed within the regulations is if it has a hand forged Tudor bodkin)
Here are a couple of Tudor bods, have a go at these next, unless you've already made some!
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