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Small twist in a stave

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Rich Saffold:
Simon,All the elms I have used were very strong in tension and handled the poundage you want and twist you show here. In the low humidity here, it's a favorite..Well since we can't go out and cut high altitude yew in the local suburbs...

Rich

SimonUK:
Thanks Rich. I know how you feel ...oh to be living in the alps.

SimonUK:
I made exactly the same mistake as I did with my last reflexed stave: too much floor tillering.  I got a weak area near that twisted part. Then I had to take a lot of wood off the rest of the bow to make it bend evenly.

So the draw weight at the moment is only 60 lb and I still have some tillering to do.  It's 83 inches long - how much would I need to shorten it to bring the weight up to about 75 lbs?

It had about an inch of reflex at the start, now it's completely straight.  Here are some pictures:

Before tillering (back is to the left)



Full draw, trying not to scrape the ceiling.  Any advice on the tiller? The upper limb is too stiff I think, but should I continue tillering, or just shorten the lower limb and re-position the handle? Thanks.

D. Tiller:
If you are at full draw then thats it for that bow! Now next time I think I would be getting the upper limb to bend a bit more on the last 3/4 of the limb. Just looks a tad stiff to me.  You could pike it a bit and have some more to work with but for a firs bow this looks good. Try and shoot it and see how it works.

David T

Asiertxu:
Hey Simon!

Thatīs a fine looking bow and tiller mate!!..8) REALLY NICE in my opinion.

If you want a faster and heavyer bow, you can allways shorten it a bit (one to two inches from the tips in both limbs)... :) ;)...

Now, you only have to fit some nice english style horn nocks on it and ready to shot!!

Thanks for share Simon..

Cheers...

Asier.

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