Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Syringa arrow build a long
juniper junkie:
I generally use hand straightening, but on problem shafts I use a arrow wrench which is a small block of hardwood about 1/2" thick 5-6" long with a couple of holes drilled through, one 11/32, the other 5/16. using this does leave small depressions in the shaft. you can use heat if the shaft has become too dry and is not responding to bending, this works very well and does not take much heat. once you have the shafts straight then you can take a drill, I use a cordless makita because it is not too fast, I wouldnt use a high speed drill, and sandpaper, start with 80g, hold the paper in one hand folded up and chuck the other end in the drill and squeeze the sandpaper while the shaft turns, this also helps to reduce the thickness of the butt end of the shaft, and remove some of the marks from straightening. dont use too much on the center portion of the shaft until you check the spine as this will weaken it. you can next switch to 220g. you will notice a pith in the center of the shaft, although it is not always true center. for my nock inserts I will remove the pith using a small rat tail file. or you can use a small flat screwdriver, the pith is really soft and is removed easily. I usually go down about 3/4".
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juniper junkie:
after the pith is removed you will need to make the inserts. I use a hardwood for the inserts, in this case I am using cocobolo, because I like the look of the contrast with the white shaft. I cut the material into 3/8" about 1-1/4" long I then chuck them into the drill, you may need to sand down the edges to get them in the drill, next i go to my disc sander, with the insert chucked in the drill I position it on the edge of the sanding disc with about 1/2-3/4" being sanded, run the drill and slowly let the disc reduce this area to form a tang to insert into the pith, this will take some practice ;) not all the piths are the same size so I usually do them per shaft so they fit good, use the edge of the disc to form the mating surface of the outer shaft. one it fits then glue it into the shaft. once dry you can chuck up the shaft and use the sanding disc to round off the nock and even it to the shaft, once you get close you can finish by holding sandpaper and useing the drill as before. after the fine paper is used you can take steel wool to further smoothe the nock and area to be fletched. I will post the next steps tomorrow. happy new year to all!
juniper junkie:
OOPs I forgot the pics ;D
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juniper junkie:
another pic
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Keenan:
Looking awesome Dave, real informative and good pics. I'm sure everyones going to love it. Keenan
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