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wooden shaft users?

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uwe:
I use parallel shafts, but they get a little less. I turned to shoots of hazel and dogwood. Now I make my own shafts from cane or is a bamboo? There are too many bamboosort out, so that I can`t which it is. But I can say they are very reliable in straightness, durability and what I prefer very much, there is no spineproblem to be looked for.

PeteC:
Charles,you should get my E-mail now.I did send it to the wrong address.Me and these computers. God Bless

stringstretcher:
got it and thanks for the info.  Now all I have to do is look for another few year to find some of this......lol....what a journey

daniel:
I only shot tapered arrows, even though can't really see the difference with my recurve, with longbow hawever they're much better than parallel shafts;
I would start with parallel cedars, lets say 23/64 and 70-74 spine, get tham really straight, than I would put stain on the nock end of the shaft (7"or so)
using small block plane, I would taper the shaft to make stain dissappear,
instead of calipers, I controll the thickness of the shaft with guides for Tru-Center taper tool
I would finish with 80-100-150-220 sandpaper and #00-0000 steal wool
from my experience shaft looses about 2-3# of spine, but that's ok (You can use lighter point, without altering FOC much)
entire arrow will be about 20-30grains lighter, than parallel shaft from the same set and will fly like a dart

JackCrafty:
I've shot mostly parallel shafts while hunting.  But as a kid I shot shoot shafts with the big end at the nock...tapering to a thinner tip.  I did this mainly because I split the nock end to insert my fletching.  The "skinny" end wouldn't split as consistently as the "fat" end.

Anyway, now that I'm making arrows similar to NA designs, I'm shooting barrelled shafts.  I still tend to favor an arrow that is "fatter" under the feathers but I don't know why this works better for me.  Maybe it's because of the the way I realease the arrow?  I've been known to the quite "ungraceful".

As far as penetration of the arrow into the target, I've found that if the target is soft a "skinny" tip works MUCH better.  It also works better on targets with a thin, hard, skin.  I've got holes in my hardy-plank shed to prove it (I gave up using the shed as a backdrop).  Amazing what a wooden tip can do.....

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