Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
New Yew in progress
AH:
--- Quote from: wizardgoat on November 06, 2014, 12:59:54 pm ---Looks like that sapwood is around 1/2" which to me is too thick. If it's that thick everywhere you will run the risk of your outer limbs being mostly sapwood, which isn't horrible, but It will take more set and not look as good in my opinion. I haven't made a bow over 100#, so maybe I'm wrong in this case. All my yew bows are under 60#, and I go with 3/16-1/4" sapwood thickness
I worked a 5 year old yew stave, and after floor tiller I weighed it and kept an eye on it. It still dropped weight for another 2 months.
--- End quote ---
sapwood is about 1/4'' to 3/8'' in the thickest parts
PatM:
I know what the cambium and inner bark look like. I most definitely see ring violations. You can even see the removed shavings. Take a look at the stuff you've shaved off and look for white on the underside.
wizardgoat:
Ok, my bad. That pic with it in your hand it's looks thicker.
It does look like some bad ring violations to me too, but in my experiences
with yew (8 bows), it doesn't matter, just doesn't look as good.
If I made a yew bow over 80#, i would be going for one continuous ring.
Del has posted many times to just peel the bark and let the cambium snap
off as you tiller. I finally did it last night, and it works awesome.
Del the cat:
I wish people would just leave the bark on >:(
It will pop off when you start flexing the stave of the tiller. you end up with a perfect back with zero work!
It even shows where the wood is bending most... it pops off there first! natures strain gauge!
Del
WillS:
Only works if you happen to have a stave with the perfect sapwood thickness. They're quite rare...
Even on this stave I'd reduce the sapwood. It may just be a personal preference, but much more than about 6mm is too thick in my opinion for a Warbow. Wants to be mostly heartwood as that's where all the power is.
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