Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
phragmites arrow build a long
Josh B:
I promised to do a build a long with phragmites a few weeks ago and just managed to get home and grab some seasoned phragmites. This one is actually a couple yrs old. I recommend at least a month drying time. I always cut at the very end of the growing season to ensure full maturity. You'll know if it's not mature within a week of cutting it because it will shrivel up if its not. I believe this piece came from east st Louis il. Always look for the tallest culm with the smallest diameter base. You'll want to use the base of the culm for your arrow as the higher portions have paper thin walls. Even the base of the culm will be pretty thin walled compared to cane. Another thing is to avoid the crooked node pieces. The straighter the culm, the better. But the nodes are really difficult to straighten. The first pic is the chosen victim for this project. You will notice the extreme dog leg at one end. That node broke while straightening. (Shoulda followed my own advice on culm selection) The first step is to clean up the nodes so that I can get even heat dispersal through the node so I can straighten it. Just lay a knife blade flat against the culm and run it back and forth the node while turning the culm. Don't put any pressure against the culm with the knife. Just let the weight of the knife follow the contour as you run it back and forth. The node should clean up quick and easy.
Josh B:
Once the nodes are cleaned up, you start heating and straightening the shaft. You'll want to leave it full length for now to aid straightening. This ones almost 4' long. It's been awhile since I've worked with this stuff and I had forgotten how truly delicate this stuff is to work. Patience and a gentle touch are a must! I use a bit lighter to heat the sections that i want to straighten. Be careful that you don't burn it. This stuff is thin and heats fast! You can see the result of too much heat in the first pic. It snapped right off. Also when heat the sections between the nodes be careful that you don't crush it. The heat makes the thin walls soft. Did I mention this stuff is delicate? After you get it all straightened out to your satisfaction, the next step is cutting it to length. Always cut the nocks end (skinny end) first. You'll want to cut it 1/2"-3/4" above the node. This is so you can make an insert to reinforce the nocks that will butt up against the inside of the node. To cut it, I use a sharp knife and score it deeply all the way around the place I want the cut. Kinda like a tubing cutter action. If you score it deep enough all the way around, it should snap off nice and clean with very little pressure. Once the nock end is cut, you can measure down and cut the foreshaft end the same way. Remember to cut it to the full length of your draw and no shorter. The foreshaft does not get drawn past the back of the bow. Here is the semi straightened shaft cut to length. More to come in the next few days. Thanks for looking! Josh
osage outlaw:
Talk about multi-tasking. Driving a semi and straightening shafts at the same time. WOW! ;D
Knoll:
Not had opportunity to read the build along yet. But wanted to holler out an acknowledgement!
My shoots are seasoning slowly outside on the patio table in these cold cold temps. Will cut them down to 40+" today and bring inside.
turtle:
Nice josh. Try lightly sanding the shaft and give it a coat of boiled linseed oil before heating. BOL is a flame retardant and really helps to stop scorching on phragmites.
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