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Arrowhead Weight and Draw Weight
Poggins:
I've been shooting one that weighs just over 100g , but I have it on a wildrose shaft that has a taper to it so that adds some weight up front also .
I know of a few hunters that match weight on three or more hunting arrows by drilling a small hole in the end of their shaft and inserting enough lead wire or small shot to add weight and match the points , usually in the range of 145-175g .
JackCrafty:
Yeah. I've inserted copper into the front portion of shafts to get the weight desired for some of the arrows I've sold.
JackCrafty:
No other opinions? :-\
Sasquatch:
I wanted to give my opinion. The points that i make and use are thick, Im still working on the thinning. But if i could have it my way they would be thin, for sharpness, because thin points can be sharperon edges. They would also be about 1 in wide. 1 in is still enough width to do alot of damage as it passes the vitals, yet wont effect arrow flight by having a set of wings on the front of the arrow. As a result of the two parameters(1in and thin) The point would also be light (50-75Gr). My experience with killing deer is that the size of the hole going through the vitals doesn't matter. A .22 cal will kill a deer if you put it through the heart. It is more important to have the accuracy needed to hit vitals and penetration to go all the way through the animal. More penetration will kill the animal faster(2 lungs v's 1 lung), and with a better chance of recovery.
On another note I think that the public has misconceptions( their not good enough anymore) about stone points because there is a huge push in modern archery for wider broad heads( 2" cutting diameters, etc) I think that this wider is better has pushed into primitive archers. Maybe people that shoot big points on arrows are doing it for the extra width.
Lessons learned from modern archery: I have shot compounds for 15 years before PA. One lesson that i learned and still applies is that you cant put sails on the front of the arrow and expect pinpoint accuracy( unless the bow is perfectly tuned). Thats why they invented the expandable broadheads, and we know how popular those are. the evidence doesnt lie. If you have pinpoint accuracy and maximum damage to the animal, then you will be more successful.
caveman2533:
Here is the reply I got from Ralph:
In the beginning I didn't know what type to start with so I started with a corner notched point similar in shape to a steel Zwickey. It worked very well. Over time and many styles, I've come to realize several things about stone points and self bows.
Weight isn't as important as size and placement of shot .
I've settled on triangle points such as the Cahokia due to ease of making and hafting, controllable dimensions, and most important of all the penetration. Self bows are generally slow in comparison to modern fiberglass bows and shot placement and penetration are paramount for good success rate. When making an arrowhead for hunting we aren't concerned with art, but function. I make my points 7/8th of an inch to 1 inch wide at the bottom and about 1.75 to 2 inches long. The thickest place on the point should be just above the ending arrow shaft. I like to end the shaft no less than 1/4 of an inch above the notches.
Weight wise, mine weigh about 120 grains plus pitch glue and sinew wrapping. I did do some experimenting a few years back and found that at 20 yards, I could shoot an 80, 100, 120 grain head within 2 inches of each other inside an 8 inch circle. Weight really doesn't matter to me as much as getting the head on straight.
Softer and cooked materials.... make the points slightly thicker. Raw material can be a little thinner.
Hope this helps. Ralph
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