Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Short Arrows and Shootless
Coo-wah-chobee:
--- Quote from: wolfsire on January 25, 2008, 10:25:35 pm ---
--- Quote from: jackcrafty on January 25, 2008, 08:41:11 pm ---I'm confused about how to assign a spine value to an arrow that doesn't fit the mold (like many Indian arrows). Right now, I use trial and error to match my arrows.
....................... The spine tester is a good tool in most circumstances. However, I think what ya said is the most accurate. Short draw arras indeed all arras will show a preference for the bow or not no matter what the spine tester says. Spine testers will get ya close but not necessarily all the way. They are easier but not the only way like ya said. My 2 cents..........bob
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M-P:
Hi, I thought spine testing was merely a way of standardizing shaft stiffness. That's why it's technically specified as xxº of deflection at 26". The individual archer then needs to make adjustments based on his/her bow, etc. Longer draw lengnths need stiffer arrows, per pound draw weight. Wider handles need weaker spines per draw weight. Etc.
Anyway as someone already mentioned the spine weight is just a guideline. My suggestion is to measure all your shafts at 26" ( if possible) and use those measurements to group and compare shafts. If you're making a spine tester just mark the scale in degrees of flexion and make up your own chart of which spine deflection works best with a given bow. Then you'll be able to consistantly pick the right shafts, or work stiff ones down the the right spine. There's a lot of trial and error each time you make a new bow, but once you've found even one arrow that consistantly flies right, you make more to match.
Ron
PS You've got a pm too.
Pat B:
With hardwood shoots and cane, you can reduce the spine by up to 10# because of the natural taper.
Pat
DanaM:
Make some arrows of varying stiffiness in your desired length then test shoot them.
When you find the one that shoots best build the rest just like it. A shoot shaft can
be planed or sanded down to lighten the spine some. Pound two nailes in the wall about 20"
apart and hang a wieght off the middle of the shaft then trace a line on the wall along the bend.
Then all ya have to do is match up the rest of yer shafts.
JackCrafty:
Thanks Wolfsire I read a bunch of articles on arrow spine a while back....but I've slept since then.
Thanks M-P Yeah, I use my spine tester to group my shafts into "stiffness" bundles. This helps me weed out the odd shaft that is either too stiff or too weak for its weight (in grains). This saves time down the line because I don't have to worry about messing with the shaft diameter too much.
Thanks Pat B Natural taper....hmmmm.....in which direction? My experiments have shown that a chested arrow (thickest under the feathers) can be reduced in spine (and shoot just fine) but a bobtailed arrow is more finicky. If the arrowhead is heavy, well......then the whole business gets REALLY tricky.
Thanks Dana-M Good advice....except for the pounding of the nails in the wall. Question...who's wall is it? My walls do not "belong" to me if you know what I mean. ;) And yes, the "match the good arrow technique" is the one I use. I just wish there was a shortcut to building arrows (for someone else) instead of saying, "Send me your best arrow and I'll copy it". I don't know about you but MY best arrow is my best buddy. :'(
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