Main Discussion Area > HowTo's and Build-a-longs
Holmegaard build along
adb:
Looks like a Holmegaard, doesn't it. I love that Holmie profile! Nothing else like it.
As far as short string goes, I like to get to it as soon as possible. Brace it as soon as you safely can. It's hard to know exactly where you're at with the long string.
adb:
Last time I had it up on the tree, I thought I needed to remove some wood nearer to the distal fades, to get it bending not so much at the first fades near the handle. So, I took a bit off the outer half of both inner limbs.
From low brace, it's now 50# @ 20". We've got lots of room. I usually work the bow for at least 50 pulls between wood removal. I also like to pull it to just below target weight, and see how much draw we have.
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adb:
It still needs to bend a bit more at the outer portion of the inner limbs. Still looks pretty even. The right limb might be a little behind. I have not removed any wood from the first 3 -4" of the inner limbs, just past the handle fades. For the remainder of tiller, I probably won't, either. I'll try to get it to final weight by removing wood from the outer half of the inner limbs. We'll see.
Remember when tillering a Holmie, you only look at the inner limbs. With this picture, take a piece of paper and hold it up to the image, hiding both of the outer non-bending limbs, right where they start to thicken. What do you think now?
Certainly, we have to get the inner limbs bending in a more circular fashion, to distribute to stress over the entire limb. Because the outer non-bending limbs are long, it looks like the bow is doing all the bending right at the fades.
Look at the string angle. See how shallow it is? This is the main advantage of this design. Low string angle, no stacking, low finger pinch.
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adb:
It has hardly taken any set, at this point. Maybe 3/8".
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adb:
From here, I'll probably set aside the rasp, and remove wood with a scraper only. We're in the ball park, not the time to rush things.
That's it for tonight! More soon.
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