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Building the Vine Maple Bow - Finished

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Gordon:
I line the marks up with a French curve and cut off the excess leather. I will repeat the previous steps and make my marks on the opposite edge if I still need to fine tune the fit.





I use a 3 prong 1/16" leather thonging chisel to make an equal number of lacing holes along each edge -  19 holes for this handle.

Gordon:
I also cut an arrow pass from a piece of the same leather. I make the pass 1/2" x 1 1/2" and use a plate as my guide while making the cut with a sharp Exacto blade.





I dye the handle leather and arrow pass with tan leather dye. I make sure that I also dye any exposed edges.

Gordon:
I wrap the leather around the handle and mark the location of the arrow rest. I then spread some barge cement on the area of the handle that will contact the arrow rest and the arrow rest itself.







While the cement is curing I cut a 3 foot length of 1/16" leather lacing and attach lacing needles to each end.



I let the cement cure for about 15 minutes. I fit the leather onto the handle and press the leather into the arrow rest letting the contact cement do its work.

Gordon:
Because I have an uneven number of holes (19) on an edge I start the lacing with a horizontal stitch rather than a cross stitch.





I thread each end of the lacing to the next hole on the opposing side. The lacing will cross itself underneath the leather when done.







I then thread each end of the lacing though the next hole on the opposing side while crossing the lacing over the top of the leather.

Gordon:
I repeat the previous steps until I reach the bottom of the handle.







When the lacing is done, I put a drop of superglue underneath the final stitch to fix it and trim the excess lace.





After the handle is laced I glue on the arrow pass using thick superglue

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