Main Discussion Area > Primitive Skills
New mocs (FINISHED)
Josh B:
Ok...next step. This is entirely optional but worth the extra effort. I like to sew in a welt to strengthen the seam, but you can just so the two pieces together at this point. The welt is nothing more than a 1/4" wide strip of leather that is long enough to go all the way around the seam. In this case @ 26", but I cut it a little longer to give my self room for error.
Now comes the tedious part. The sewing. I'm using a double strand of 70# artificial sinew and a glovers needle in a simple whip stitch to attach the sole to the upper. I use a small nail, hammer and block of wood to punch the stitch holes....yes every single hole. My methods are crude...but inefficient. ::) Alrighty then! We're going to sew it inside out, all the way around EXCEPT the portion where we added the tab to the sole. So center the sole at the tip of the upper w/ the welt in place and punch the first stitch hole. Start our stitch, punch next hole about 3/16" away and stitch. Repeat all the way down to the sole tab and tie off. Go back to the toe and work down the other side. Placing the stitch is important, not just from stitch to stitch but from the edge of the leather. Too close to the edge and the stitch tears out, to far from the edge and you end up with a bulky seam rubbing your foot raw. Don't get in a hurry. General rule of thumb when your threading your needle is you will need 3 times the length of the seam in thread. In other words, if your sewing a 10" long seam, have at least 30" of thread on your needle when you start.
Josh B:
And we're off like a herd of turtles! Once I get the sole mostly sewn on, I'll show you the next step. Thanks for following along! Josh
Josh B:
On with the show! In the first pic you can see that I have sewn from the center of the toes along one side to the heel. The second pic is a sneak peak at the seam from the other side. It looks nice and tight so I move on to the other side. Again, starting at the same point of the toe and sewing down the other side. The leather will become a bit resistant to lining up properly since you're now forcing it to take a 3 dimensional shape. Be patient, it will get easier once you get around the toe. Third pic shows that I've nearly gotten the entire sole sewn on. You don't want to sew it up completely because there is some fitting left to do. And a side shot of what your moccasin should be looking like at this point. If you stand on your head, cover one eye, close the other and use some imagination, you can almost see that this is intended to be some sort of foot wear. It does get better soon. Trust me! >:D
Josh B:
Next step is to pinch the back of the upper together and find the centerline of the upper. Once you establish the centerline, your going to make a cut down that centerline to a point a couple inches short of where the moccasin will contact the top of the foot at the the juncture of your foot and ankle. You will extend this cut once you get the moccasin right side out, but be careful not to cut too far at this step. Once you make the cut, you can proceed to turning the moccasin right side out. It won't be easy! The toe area is going to give you some serious fits, just be patient. It will eventually let you straighten it all out. Whatever you do, do not grab a set of pliers and try to yank it all out. If you do, you will regret it. I have a rounded off 1/2" dowel that I use to gently coax the stubborn parts straight. That is all you'll need. Once you get that fight won, you will do your first trial fit. Slide it on your foot. If you didn't get carried away on your top cut, your foot will stop short of sliding all the way in. If so, take it back off and extend the cut a little more until your toes just barely brush the front seam of the moccasin. From the end of that cut make about a 2" cut off too each side as illustrated in the pics. If all has went according to plan thus far, your moccasin should be as snug as a sock, not tight, not loose ....just comfortably snug. More to come later! Josh
lebhuntfish:
Looking good Josh!
Patrick
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