Thanks for the input everyone, and I will probably spend a few more minutes tillering, after I fix the tree.
Colin- do not mean to be confusing about my plans for the larger bow. The lack of information is on the account of the fact that the plan for the bow is not well made at this point. My recently made bow was a laminate because I was experimenting with a piece of Larch for the belly that I found in the stud pile at the lumber yard. It has straight grain and a pretty color, and might have some future use for laminated bows of lighter poundages, but the piece I tillered seemed to keep giving me problems in the same spot, and the jury is still out as to whether it has a future in my bow making plans. I quit tillering when the bow hit 45# and it seems to be taking more set just leaving it strung.
My experiments with materials have little to do with the plans for the 100# warbow at this point. Not having a local source for hardwood boards, almost all my bows have been made using staves I harvest myself. Unfortunately the best trees in my area, are lighter meanewoods. primarily birch. I have some nice long staves to use, and a big guy that wants a heavy bow. The plan is to go hunting for some dangerous game, using primitive arrows also. I need to get all the poundage I can, out of the longest and widest bow that he can stand to shoot, and shoot with some accuracy.
Having never tillered warbow before, I thought that my laminate experiment would be a good opportunity to refine a tiller to duplicate in the larger bow. It is the tillering part of my experiment that is most important to me with this bow, and why I am posting in this section.
I am curious as to what tiller shape might be most appropriate for a self meanewood warbow. You mentioned a little more bending in the tips than a perfect circular arc at full draw. I see some examples posted that seem to be slightly flatter in the handle also. Perhaps circular at a few inches shy of full draw, then lighten the mid and outer limbs some to reach full draw could be a plan for tillering?
We will be shooting at close range, and accuracy will be important for proper shot placement. I suppose that our arrows will have to be somewhat on the lighter side to shoot well from a wide handle. I do not know enough about these heavy designs to choose the most effective tiller.
At any rate, having never tillered warbows before, I thought that I might like to have a bow in hand with the best tiller shape, to use as a model while building the bigger bow.
willie