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working details for higher poundages

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Del the cat:

--- Quote from: willie on November 01, 2015, 03:00:47 pm ---the temp nock photo is for Del, just so he won't think that all us yanks have more pucker power than common sense when using hot melt glue.

--- End quote ---
:laugh: Excellent!
Del

colin1991:
Willie,

If you use left limb as lower limb you should get some fairly good timing with the arrow pass right at centre.  If its not bottom the left needs a few scrapes handle to mid-limb to even them out.

As far as a "proper" tiller for a warbow... make it how you want it. Circular or whipped... your choice.  Personally I prefer a slightly whipped tiller because to me they feel much smoother to shoot.

As far as going for a stave over a laminate for the 100lb version you want to make, why?  Laminates are far more controllable in construction than staves, a laminate allows you to tailor make the bow to what you want and use woods where they are best suited.

I'm a little confused by this thread because you have not talked about dimensions for a stave (lam or self) to get the weight you are after anywhere, just some about length and mass... width and thickness is pretty key in getting a desired weight... Changing length just changes the working strain in the bow if its made shorter and mass doesn't mean much at all.

Colin

willie:
Thanks for the input everyone, and I will probably spend a few more minutes tillering, after I fix the tree.

Colin- do not mean to be confusing about my plans for the larger bow. The lack of information is on the account of the fact that the plan for the bow is not well made at this point. My recently made bow was a laminate because I was experimenting with a piece of Larch for the belly that I found in the stud pile at the lumber yard. It has straight grain and a pretty color, and might have some future use for laminated bows of lighter poundages, but the piece I tillered seemed to keep giving me problems in the same spot, and the jury is still out as to whether it has a future in my bow making plans. I quit tillering when the bow hit 45# and it seems to be taking more set just leaving it strung.

My experiments with materials have little to do with the plans for the 100# warbow at this point.  Not having a local source for hardwood boards, almost all my bows have been made using staves I harvest myself. Unfortunately the best trees in my area, are lighter meanewoods. primarily birch. I have some nice long staves to use, and a big guy that wants a heavy bow. The plan is to go hunting for some dangerous game, using primitive arrows also. I need to get all the poundage I can, out of the longest and widest bow that he can stand to shoot, and shoot with some accuracy.

Having never tillered warbow before, I thought that my laminate experiment would be a good opportunity to refine a tiller to duplicate in the larger bow. It is the tillering part of my experiment that is most important to me with this bow, and why I am posting in this section.
I am curious as to what tiller shape might be most appropriate for a self meanewood warbow. You mentioned a little more bending in the tips than a perfect circular arc at full draw. I see some examples posted that seem to be slightly flatter in the handle also. Perhaps circular at a few inches shy of full draw, then lighten the mid and outer limbs some to reach full draw could be a plan for tillering?
We will be shooting at close range, and accuracy will be important for proper shot placement. I suppose that our arrows will have to be somewhat on the lighter side to shoot well from a wide handle. I do not know enough about these heavy designs to choose the most effective tiller.
At any rate, having never tillered warbows before, I thought that I might like to have a bow in hand with the best tiller shape, to use as a model while building the bigger bow.

willie

WillS:
Tiller shape is down to preference more than anything, but personally I think a slightly whip-tillered bow is suitable more for laminates or very occasionally certain types of yew as compared to white woods. 

White woods are so prone to chrysals that having any area bending more than another at heavy weights to me seems a recipe for disaster.  I'd focus on a virtually circular tiller, with the primary focus being to get the whole bow sharing equal amounts - especially if you're not able to get hold of the absolute best examples of some of the more forgiving meane woods such as elm, ash or hazel.

Once you have a good few under your belt you can play with the tiller and experiment but keep it safe and simple to begin with!

willie:


a few more pics were posted on the tillering goal thread in the bow section

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,54581.0.html


willie

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