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Antler Base Punch Technique

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nclonghunter:
I have watched and read many different techniques of using the antler billet and punch. Posts on PA have also influenced this technique I am now testing. Many of the antler punches and tools found that Ancient Tech has posted has shown many of the originals design. I think what you see are very similar. The board could be made from a small log and laid on the lap to work your point while sitting, or find a downed log and cut it out. In my opinion Mike Dothager is using a similar technique however he sits on the ground and supports the antler punch with his foot. The biggest thing that I like about this technique is the back of the antler punch is solid against a backstop keeping it solid into the point. The leather wrapped wood is movable to adjust the flint you are knapping to exactly where you want it. Angles of the flint can also be tilted to change the angle of break and the height can vary to change angles of punch. As Dothager points out in his video, it is best to strike the punch close to the end and at an angle towards the point. Not a straight down strike. Setting up good platforms and staying on the ridges are important also. I also use a small piece of leather to support the back of the point and keep it firm on the pad as it is struck. This seems to be a very accurate method. I like this better than the previous style I posted where the antler punch was held in a slit cut in a hard piece of leather. You can even use antler tine tips to get small concentrated flakes or a larger antler base to get wider strong flakes.You will find yourself wanting to make different punches for different purposes, such as thin flakes,wide flakes and notching. Easy to prepare and use, give it a try.

I would like to see some techniques that others are testing or trying out with antler,stone and bone

Hummingbird Point:
Thanks for showing that, I will give it a try.

Keith

nclonghunter:
You are welcome Keith, I hope it works great for you. I am still grateful for the antler base hammer you shared at the House Mountain.

I forgot to mention I think the sharp squared edge of the punch seem to work better for me than a rounded edge. I think it concentrates the energy into a small spot and carries farther across the point. I have read that some punches had flats on the sides, which I am thinking will give a wider flake and maybe a more solid fit of antler to platform when the platform is properly ground. Many say you do not need to grind when using antler but I like to get a good solid fit for antler to platform.

Good Luck

AncientTech:
Here is what I just tried out this morning.  The setup is based on three lines of information - Orcutt, Holmes, and some other archaeological information:

I need a name - maybe, "HEAVY DUTY PEG FLAKER"

The photos are not complete.  What is not shown is my grooved block anvil, and my oversized wooden mallet. 

Anyway, here is the flaker, and the first flake removal:





















I am really impressed with the extremely diffuse bulb of percussion, and the smooth nature of the flake scar.  This is wood on wood indirect percussion, with an antler flaker bit making the contact with the stone.  My theory is that the heavy wood on wood indirect percussion generates a great deal of force, but minimal shock.  The small antler flaker bit acts as the intermediary, between the process, and the stone.  It is probably comparable to pressure flaking, on STEROIDS. 

The bit is a straight section of antler, about one centimeter thick, and two and a half inches long.  I simply pounded it into the wood, after drilling.  It is not even hafted.

I am going to be working with this for a while, because it ties into another theory that I have been working on, for years.   

 

nclonghunter:
Ben, I have been thinking about just using a hard piece of hickory for the baton strike on the antler base punch rather than another piece of antler.

I also tried using my Ishi stick by placing it against my shoulder and holding the flake in my left hand. The natural bend of the arm allows pulling the flake against the antler tipped Ishi stick, then striking the Ishi stick. Only tried it a few time the other evening and got mediocre results but I think it has potential.

If you get a chance to show how you used the above wood and antler I would like to see it. I will try and get a couple pictures of the Ishi pressure strike as soon as I can.

I recently read where a light strike on indirect percussion will generate more power than heavy pressure from a pressure flaker. It is amazing how much energy you can generate and transfer through an antler punch on a specific spot. That is one reason I do not like using only a big billet for flake removal. It is a lot of energy but I hit high then low and have poor accuracy overall.

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