Antler Base Punch Technique

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AncientTech:

--- Quote from: Hummingbird Point on November 09, 2015, 02:23:12 pm ---Yes, I would also like to see the rest of Ben's set up, and any other ideas people have come up with to solve the big, big, big problem of indirect percussion, which is how to supply the "third hand" needed. I feel like it will be fairly easy to sort out by trial and error the striking, shape of the tool etc. but first we have to have a reliable way to support and manipulte the biface while manipulating and striking the punch.

Keith

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In 1895, Franklin Hamilton Cushing addressed the Vice President of the United States, and outlined over half a dozen processes used by Native American flintknappers, in reducing stone. One of the processes that he described involved resting a biface on a hollow log. Similarly, the Eskimo used a log with a spoon shaped arrow hollowed out.

Franklin describes resting the biface on the hollow log, and holding it down with one knee. I think that it could also be held down with a foot.

The biface was wrapped in "buckskin". Among other things, this reduces bounce, upon impact. It also catches stray flakes.

Meanwhile, the other two hands manipulate the flaker, and striker.

I will take more photos of my anvil, soon. I need to change my flaker for one with a bulbous end, and a thinner shaft, too.

Ben

AncientTech:

--- Quote from: le0n on November 09, 2015, 04:58:34 pm ---
--- Quote from: AncientTech on November 09, 2015, 08:01:24 am --- But, you may have to "whip" the flaker, because there is not much room for follow through.

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hadn't thought of that before.

can you actually increase velocity of the head of the striker by doing this?

is the function analogous to that of a bull whip? i know you aren't going to break the sound barrier with a stick, hah hah, but an increase in speed on the pull back is highly likely.

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I believe that you can increase speed, by using a whipping strike. Also - and this gets technical - you can also change the direction of the flaker, in some instances, by whipping it with a strike that slightly pulls the flaker head to one side. The opposite end of the flaker will kick in the opposite directly. This would apply to punches that are struck on the butt end.

We don't know for certain that only straight strikes were used. A lot more testing needs to be done... My five years of experiments have raised as many questions, as provided possible answers.

AncientTech:

--- Quote from: nclonghunter on November 09, 2015, 05:13:18 pm ---Using the antler as a striker has been plenty for flaking. Not really certain what whipping it means but placing the preform on the edge of the wood allows the antler punch to past the edge and giving plenty of follow through.

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There is a wooden board below the flaker. Obviously, the flaker is resting on the edge of the stone, which is resting on some padding. So, that should create a slight gap between the bottom of the flaker, and wooden board, down below. My guess is that the gap is less than two inches. So, if you strike really hard, the flaker could hit the board. If you strike really hard with follow through, the flaker and striker probably would hit the board. My thought is that by "whipping" the flaker, with the striker, you can avoid driving through to the board.

If you do not have to strike very hard, this may not apply. In my case, I deal with hard cherts. I have broken flakers, with hammerstone blows. Also, when the stone won't give, the blow can make a very high pitched "chirp" sound. I have to strike really hard, sometimes. And, I need a lot of space for follow through. I actually need maybe two feet of space for the flaker to swing through after detachment. Again, this may not matter in your case, if the stone is fairly brittle.

Ben

AncientTech:
I went through some more rounds of testing, yesterday. Testing, testing, testing. It is all about testing. I used crude hammerstone made spalls.

I am making some progress. The platforms are different than what I expected. Platforms may be lower, but flaker placement may be higher, to allow for drag during impact. Flaker angle also is slightly different than expected, on account of drag.

I am missing one photo of a narrow ridge removal. The flake shot 2/3rds across the biface, along a narrow strip.

I am working on the really hard end of stone. I think I may have raw agatized palm, or something similar.

Now, you can compare those flakes to this super-secret, highly banned flake:

https://youtu.be/yp7kNJT0R0c

The differences are discernible, no?

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