Main Discussion Area > ABO

Antler Base Punch Technique

<< < (2/4) > >>

turbo:
Good thread Lyman, I've been meaning to get some deer antlers to make punches for some time. I plan to make some like Keith mentioned Marty using; the composite/stick punches. The little knapping time I've had lately has been spent studying the buffalo/indirect punch. Maybe I'll start a thread on that in the near future.

It looks like you're now using a Dothager/rocker/floor punch?

Ben; I'd like to see the anvil you're using on that beast.

AncientTech:

--- Quote from: nclonghunter on November 08, 2015, 07:55:03 pm ---I have watched and read many different techniques of using the antler billet and punch. Posts on PA have also influenced this technique I am now testing. Many of the antler punches and tools found that Ancient Tech has posted has shown many of the originals design. I think what you see are very similar. The board could be made from a small log and laid on the lap to work your point while sitting, or find a downed log and cut it out. In my opinion Mike Dothager is using a similar technique however he sits on the ground and supports the antler punch with his foot. The biggest thing that I like about this technique is the back of the antler punch is solid against a backstop keeping it solid into the point. The leather wrapped wood is movable to adjust the flint you are knapping to exactly where you want it. Angles of the flint can also be tilted to change the angle of break and the height can vary to change angles of punch. As Dothager points out in his video, it is best to strike the punch close to the end and at an angle towards the point. Not a straight down strike. Setting up good platforms and staying on the ridges are important also. I also use a small piece of leather to support the back of the point and keep it firm on the pad as it is struck. This seems to be a very accurate method. I like this better than the previous style I posted where the antler punch was held in a slit cut in a hard piece of leather. You can even use antler tine tips to get small concentrated flakes or a larger antler base to get wider strong flakes.You will find yourself wanting to make different punches for different purposes, such as thin flakes,wide flakes and notching. Easy to prepare and use, give it a try.

I would like to see some techniques that others are testing or trying out with antler,stone and bone

--- End quote ---

Hello Lyman,

The process looks similar to Dothager's technique.

My impression is that it will probably work better with obsidian, and heat treated materials. 

I think that you would do better with a piece of hickory, for a striker.  But, you may have to "whip" the flaker, because there is not much room for follow through.   

Ben

Hummingbird Point:
Yes, I would also like to see the rest of Ben's set up, and any other ideas people have come up with to solve the big, big, big problem of indirect percussion, which is how to supply the "third hand" needed.  I feel like it will be fairly easy to sort out by trial and error the striking, shape of the tool etc. but first we have to have a reliable way to support and manipulte the biface while manipulating and striking the punch. 

Keith

le0n:

--- Quote from: AncientTech on November 09, 2015, 08:01:24 am --- But, you may have to "whip" the flaker, because there is not much room for follow through.

--- End quote ---

hadn't thought of that before.

can you actually increase velocity of the head of the striker by doing this?

is the function analogous to that of a bull whip? i know you aren't going to break the sound barrier with a stick, hah hah, but an increase in speed on the pull back is highly likely.

nclonghunter:
Using the antler as a striker has been plenty for flaking. Not really certain what whipping it means but placing the preform on the edge of the wood allows the antler punch to past the edge and giving plenty of follow through.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page