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Indirect Pressure Percussion
AncientTech:
SPLITTING - The issues of the wood splitting probably relate to the wood being too thin around the antler bit. The wood can be much thicker. Also, soft lashings are going to absorb the energy of impact. The photos I showed are believed to be flaking tools used over a century ago, by a native knapper, in Northern California. It looks like the native method resolves two issues, encountered by modern knappers - splitting, and soft lashings.
PRESSURE AIDED BY BLOW - To the onlooker, it probably looked as though native knappers were carrying out pressure flaking processes, only with a blow rather than pressure. The flakers that I showed above, when fitted with bits, and combined with a hammerstone blow, did on a large scale what pressure flakers did on a much smaller scale. The tools are analogous with each other. The processes are analogous with each other. What differs is the way energy is delivered, and force is created. In one case, it is done with pressure. In the other case, it is done with a blow. So, there is some variation in the tools, though the processes - flaker angle, flaker movement, etc - are essentially the same.
That being said, it actually can get more complex, because in some cases if both flaking methods - pressure and percussion - are combined with a third flaking method, then the combination of all three methods can lead to the creation of an additional force, that cannot be directly made. And, this is what alters the trajectory of the break. The creation of an additional force, that cannot be directly made, while combining three flaking processes, will result in effects that maybe cannot be created with only one or two of the three flaking methods, alone.
Still, to the uninitiated, the process may look like "pressure aided by blow". But, by combining a third method into the mix, one may be able to create a force that effects the break, as it occurs, or nears the end of its trajectory. So, beyond combing two flintknapping methods, it is possible to combine three flintknapping methods. And, this is why anyone that knows anything about Native American flintknapping, will never assume that "a tool" equates to "a certain effect". Using a tool in a single flintknapping process will not produce the type of results that can be achieved when the same tool is used in a combination of flaking processes. The end results can be quite different. And, this is why the "tool based" view is folly. It does not work, because some tools can be used in combined processes that produce completely different effects, than if they had been used in single processes. And, the truth is that some Indians, right up until about a hundred years ago, knew this. But, the actual knowledge probably goes back to Clovis times.
Because of this, I have found it a little easier to look at a flake in three phases, or parts. A The initiation. B. The trajectory. C. The termination. Early researchers sometimes said that pressure flakes follow the line of force. But, some types of flakes can show something far more complex than pressure. The initiation aspects tell of how the break was started. The trajectory may reveal what forces were playing upon the break, as the break was occurring. And, the termination may show how all such forces relate to the support. It is my opinion that combinations of certain flaking technologies can lead to very long running flakes, followed by 90 degree outrepasse terminations. And, if a person can rule out hard hammer percussion, and the initiations show signs of indirect percussion, then, in my opinion, the rest of the flake - trajectory, plus termination - may reveal the subsequent forces at work, while the break is occurring. And, these forces can be understood in terms of additional flaking processes that have been combined with the "indirect percussion", or "pressure aided by blow", process.
nclonghunter:
Heck, I am still getting my composite stick and percussion technique in good working order and you add a third method... ::)
I have a couple ideas for the third method that I have read from descriptions of past knappers. It is something that I hope to try eventually. I know how I can use modern tools to achieve what I want but need to figure how it was done with old tools. Life certainly puts enough obstacles in place to slow the learning curves.
Hummingbird Point:
I've tried striking on the wood but it is not working well. It feels like the wood is soaking up too much of the energy of the blow. When I strike on the antler I get more of the energy of the strike to flow into the stone. It would seem that using a thicker piece of wood would dampen the blow even more. What am I missing? Has anyone else tried this?
Keith
nclonghunter:
Keith, I also tried using wood to strike the composite stick and got the same results. Just seemed to absorb the energy. I went back to striking the antler tip with antler as you did. Perhaps a hard wood like hickory or dogwood may transfer the energy. Until then I am continuing to strike the antler tip with antler.
AncientTech:
--- Quote from: Hummingbird Point on January 05, 2016, 10:06:24 pm ---I've tried striking on the wood but it is not working well. It feels like the wood is soaking up too much of the energy of the blow. When I strike on the antler I get more of the energy of the strike to flow into the stone. It would seem that using a thicker piece of wood would dampen the blow even more. What am I missing? Has anyone else tried this?
Keith
--- End quote ---
There are many different types of wood. There is a Janka hardness rating for wood. Janka hardness is measured by pushing a small steel ball a certain distance into a piece of wood. In some cases, the ball can be pressed in with just a few hundred pounds of pressure. But, in other cases, when wood is highly resistant, it can take over a 1000 psi to push in the ball. You probably need to study carefully the types of wood that you are using. A highly resistant wood is going to act more like antler than a softer wood. Some wood is so soft that it dents easily. This sort of wood could be too soft. All of this applies to the striker, as well. Also, you may have to switch to an anvil support, if the blows are really hard.
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