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Del's 120# Pacific Yew Warbow

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Del the cat:
Just finished a Warbow from a Pacific Yew stave provided by the guy wanting the bow.
76 3/4" ntn 79 ttt.
The back is untouched and retains some of the underbark surface showing.
I've done 5 videos showing the whole build and there are loads of pics and dimensions on my blog (Bowyers Diary)
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/moan.html
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/slowly-improving-tiller.html
Here's the link to the playlist of videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sR28fBBADdY&list=PLBz2tD9476KRkSOSICLsc-zj5ADyPKLZB
It's not actually been shot yet. The bow has no set even after exercise and being strung half a day. Fully rested it has a whisker of backset.
Del

alexw:
Hi Del

Looks great and I've really found the buildalong videos useful - thanks!

A question from me as I get my head around tillering and what to look out for - is the left limb not markedly stiffer than the right? Might be a trick of light and shadow, but that's how it seems to this relatively untrained eye.

Cheers

Del the cat:
Indeed the left (lower) is a tad stiffer, but that the traditional "positive tiller" found on most bows (even modern target recurves are adjusted that way)
It's due to the bow being pulled or gripped from slightly off centre.
I used to think it was hogwash until I had an Ash flatbow go weak in the lower limb.
Del

joachimM:
Del, I actually had the same question. How do you know the tiller is OK, with such a difference? I mean, differing a whole brick  ::) it looks a lot more than just "a tad stiffer". I can gather that you can feel it through shooting and moving the handle position a bit, but since this hasn't been shot yet I wouldn't know how to evaluate the tiller here.

Del the cat:
A whole brick seems to be about what I usually get. Bear in mind I try to support the bow on the tiller where it will be supported in the hand and draw it from where the string will be pulled.
This post shows what a difference that can make.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/tillering-symmetry.html
There is little difference visible at brace if you look at the video on Youtube.
Experience has shown me that if I tillered it to look perfectly symmetrical, it would look weak in the lower limb when actually shot.
That's one reason i take video and generally also take pics with a bow being actually shot. Hopefully I'll get some pics of it being shot at the weekend... it's too heavy for me, I damn near tweaked my back stringing it >:(
Dunno if this pic helps. Two identical circles/ellipses offset by the length of the grip showing the two limbs have a similar curve. I s'pose to some extent it depends where you visualise the hand that holds the bow and where the weight is supported. Base of thumb or heel of hand... all rather subtle and subjective.
You also need to view it in the light of how it progresses from the earlier stages... the tiller may not be perfect, but it is vastly improved over the course of the build. It also needs to be viewed relative to the unbraced stave. It's not made from machined laminations!
Del

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