Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Hazel warbow
Del the cat:
I'd go wide (40mm), flattish heat treated belly, trapped back.
That should minimise the chance of breakage or chrsals.
This post from my blog gives some idea of the cross section on the one I made.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/first-test-shots.html
Del
stuckinthemud:
I heavily modified Del's design to make a 30# hazel longbow, it shoots really nicely and no crysals - cheers Del !
Lucasade:
It's been roughed out to the dimensions on the Norwegian Warbows site for a 90#er - I figured if I'm aiming for about 70 this would give me plenty of wriggle room. It's helpful to see the profile picture - thank you.
Lucasade:
Just out of interest, if I trap the back too much how will I know? Ideally before I end up with a tension break of course... ::)
WillS:
That's why you probably shouldn't bother, until you know you have to. It's a waste of energy if the wood doesn't need it, and at 80lb I'd say you almost certainly don't need to.
Make the bow as you would anyway, get the corners rounded and smoothed out, and if it starts showing set across the entire bow, you can ease the back corners off slightly more until you're happy. Trying to make a white wood bow ready from the very beginning is a pretty good recipe for disaster. You can do it with yew as it can take more abuse than most people can throw at it, but try it with white woods and they'll kick you in the teeth ;)
I have a feeling you're probably twiddling your thumbs a bit, waiting for a proper tiller tree setup. That's exactly when you make mistakes that you regret afterwards. Put the bow away somewhere, and don't look at it again until the tillering tree is ready.
Go on. Put it down. Put... the bow... down....
And have a cup of tea.
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