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Troublesome Yew Stave

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babbott:
If I do use dry heat, do I brown the sapwood as well as the heartwood?  Is the intention to heat the stave all the way through, or just the surface?  Is it an iterative process, or do I get just one shot at it?  Should I hyper-flex the stave while cooling in anticipation of it springing back, or just clamp it flat?  Is steam safer for the wood if I clamp it for two weeks, as indicated? 
Thanks,
-Ben

Yeomanbowman:

--- Quote from: Marc St Louis on February 27, 2008, 08:21:01 pm ---Shouldn't take that long Simon. I usually wait at least a couple days but less than a week before I resume tillering

--- End quote ---
Marc,
Simon lives in Scotland, which is not exactly known for it's arid conditions.  OK 2 weeks may be 'belt and braces' but that's me when making bows.  What adjustment would you make for a cold and damp climate?

Marc St Louis:
I would say it a humid environment you would be safe to tiller after a couple days.

SimonUK:
That makes sense. I'm planning to use dry heat, so the damp in Scotland should accelerate the re-hydration.

a finnish native:
teh mistake you made was that took the bark and some wood off the belly side and left the bark on the back. at least rowan twists some deflex into it if done so.
you can stam that out or use dry heat.

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