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Yew Stave Just Arrived...

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penderbender:
In the pics you have the wood looks fine! I wouldn't worry about it. And like del says it will darken with age. Cheers- Brendan

DC:
Some is pale, some is darker. In my limited experience I haven't noticed any difference in performance. Your finish will darken it some. You could try a test patch now and then you might want to choose an amber or darker finish.

Ruddy Darter:

--- Quote from: Del the cat on September 25, 2016, 08:31:47 am ---It's pretty similar to what I just made that 150# warbow from.
My advice hasn't changed, but if you did watn to heat bend it, you'd want to get it roughed out first and beginning to flex anyway.
Del

--- End quote ---
Hope I'm not deemed rude by asking a question on this post, when it comes to heat straightening a near dimensions stave, say to reduce a deep natural d-flex with steam on oregon yew, is it advisable to seal the stave first with Danish oil or sealant of some sorts? (Or a steady dry heat on bare wood a safer option on a recently seasoned stave?)
And if steamed straight is it a good idea to then follow with some dry heat tempering of the belly to inhibit the return of any d-flex?

Thanks for any insight/opinions on this,

...Good venture with this bow markc324 , hope you get a great result. :)

R.D.

DC:
Quite often when I steam yew I get a purple stain from it. It's not deep and scrapes right off but if it's on the sapwood and you want pristine sapwood it can be a bear. I'm not sure if sealing it would help but it might be worth thinking about. Wait for more input ;)

WillS:
You can avoid the purple stain by simply wrapping the bow in clingfilm/gladwrap first.  You only need the heat on the timber, not the steam itself.

For dry heat, just go straight onto bare wood.  Some people add oil to the area, but it's not necessary.

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