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Bareshaft testing and nock height - need input

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Knoll:
There's quite a variety to the bows I make. From 20# kid bows to 47# adult bows. That's one reason I got into bareshaft testing. Also wide variance in distance between "side plate" and bowstring.

I find myself using variety of shaft materials. Also buy "2nd's" when I find them and that often means wide spine variances. That's additional reasons I began bareshaft testing.

One of fav bows is 43# @ 25". Have 4 "sets" of arrows that work well with that bow.

     set1     33#     28 1/2"     275 gn w/o point     125 gn point     german spruce, 5/16
     set3     49#     29 1/2"     310                          100                   sitka spruce 5/16
     set4     49#     30 1/2"     375                          125                   cane 5/16ish
     set5     46#     30"            315                          125                  carbon              >:D

And I find bareshaft testing to be fun activity.

Aaron H:
Chris when I build a bow, yes I do make at least 3 arrows that are solely intended to be used out of that bow. Sometimes more, but that depends on the intent of the bow.

I will make them all the same length according to the draw length of the bow, therefore when I use those arrows, you cannot overdraw the bow. I start with heavy spined arrows, shoot them, then continue to scrape them down until they are flying straight into my target. Then fletch. If I scrape off too much, then those get tossed to the side for a lighter weight bow.
Yes, you do end up with lots of arrows, but I enjoy making arrows nearly as much as I enjoy building bows.  Not saying this is the right or only way, this is just the way I do it.

PEARL DRUMS:
But you aren't using parallel shafts with a know spine, correct?

I'm not arguing with anybody here as I don't care what anybody else does to gain confidence in a rig, that's a good thing for anybody. Just trying to wrap my head around it. 20 +/- years of doing this stuff has never proven to me its needed for MY set ups. I doubt it has anything to do with my alleged "trophy" bows, they are no different than yours or anybody else that knows how to bend wood evenly. I cant see why one 50# self bow needs anything different than the next 50# self bow. That's why I asked just how much variance you bare shafters have from set to set in similar bows. 

Aaron H:
Sometimes I will start with a known spine. Whether it be bamboo, PO cedar, Sitka spruce, etc.   But a lot of times I will make them from shoots like dogwood or even river cane. I approach them all the same way. Start heavy, then scrape down to achieve good flight.  Mind you must be careful when dealing with bamboo or cane and only lightly scrape.

I also have a wide range of draw weights when it comes to my collection of bows, and yes some of them will shoot ok from one bow to the other of equal weights.

As far as spine, I no longer measure them to see any variance. The only measurement I care about is weight.

I see bare shaft tuning as a fine adjustment. Plus I like just having matching "sets".

Once again, I just enjoy building arrows, and I do notice a difference in performance and accuracy, therefore in my opinion it is worth the time and effort.

Aaron H:
But, I haven't been doing this nearly as long as many of you, and maybe it is just me inserting confidence into my shooting, whatever it is, it works for me.

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