Main Discussion Area > Flintknapping
How to know when its sharp
aaron:
I don't test them by cutting, nececarily, I just look real close. I look for overall straightness of the edge both when viewed edge-on and when viewed from the face. Also I look for "platform remnants" or grinding marks. I look for tiny hinges and steps near the edge. I look for parts of the edge where the angle is too blunt.
It's hard to describe the sharpening process- I recommend you get with someone who can show you.To make the edge, I use two types of flakes in a specific order- there are tiny little beveling flakes, followed by longer edge-making flakes. When it's all done, the beveling falkes are gone. The final pass of flakes makes the edge- to prepare for this final series- you have to start with an edge that is already pretty damn straight and faces that are very smooth without hinges. Each flake platform in the final series is built by taking tiny flakes, NOT by grinding. Each edge-making flake in the final series connects to the previous flake- you take them all in a row from base to tip or tip to base. These final flakes are "real" flakes that go at least 1/4 of the way across the point- not tiny little 1mm flakes. . To me, the key is learning to build your platforms by flaking rather than grinding, the tiny platform-building flakes(a.k.a beveling flakes) produce a rather steeply beveled edge. For me, these tiny platform building flakes are taken in the same direction as the edge-making flakes and the tiny bevel they produce is not the place where you put your flaker tip, the bevel is on the bottom.I usually take 2 tiny beveling flakes, then one edge-making flake, then move down the edge about 1/8 inch, take two tiny bevel-making flakes, and so on.
Orrum:
It's a blood sport! LOL. I want the dip below the tip of a seration to be as sharp as the tip. Thats why Ginzoo knives cut so well after dulling the tips.
Stringman:
There is no way to win the argument "mine's sharper than yours." And to be fair, no one has asserted that. So in keeping with that pattern I will say "keep getting them sharper." Most folks tend to settle when they get sharp and then never reach scary sharp.
Dylan mentioned my process. I learned it from a lot of folks, but it comes closest to Tower's explanation that used to be pinned to the top. In short, get your preform flat and thin and well shaped. Run final flakes on 1 edge then flip it over. Between every flake there is a nipple. Lightly brush up on that nipple then pull that flake down. The effect is that you leave an untouched delta between 2 untouched deltas, thus an extremely sharp edge. That explanation makes it sound easy, trust me it is not. Moreover, repeating those steps along an entire edge (let alone the entire point) will take practice. You will snap a lot of points off until you figure where to apply pressure and where not.
In the end you will have an edge that is more hollow ground in cross section than "fat" edged. And for those of you who have points or knives of mine can attest, this is a sharp edge! Not the only way to do it, but the way I learned.
GlisGlis:
Aaron your points are pure beauty. Obviously I have a long way to go.
thanks stringman. i think I got your method too.
probably tomorrow will find the time to try all your advise.
Tracker0721:
Yup Aaron's will make a super sharp point as will Scott's. I've got a bandaid on after making a couple points and testing today. They're both pretty similar and the key is to have an edge free of crushed edges. Beautiful points Aaron! And Scott you can describe it so much better haha
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