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I've noticed CVA/TRADITIONS kits have issues with lock tightening

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JW_Halverson:

--- Quote from: JW_Halverson on January 28, 2017, 08:25:19 pm ---I stole a stick of cheap lipstick from the druggist's shop as pink inletting compound!

--- End quote ---

ALL RIGHT, FINE!  I bought it.  I thought I wouldn't sound so froofy if I said I stole it!!!

Eric Krewson:
One more thing; DON'T USE A DREMEL TOOL!  They can get away from you and do a tremendous amount of unrepairable damage to your lock inlet and the surrounding area. Now, if you are very experienced with the dremel and have the right bit in it you can get away with using one, I do but I was once a serious power duck decoy carver and carved very fine detail with my Dremel and Fordom tools.

I use an 1/8" cylinder shaped diamond bit in my dremel when I relieve inlets. I use a skew chisel where I have room after cutting stop lines with the right sized gouge.

Here is one I did the other day, I used a dremel, forstner bit, skew chisel, riffler files, gouges and lots of soot. My lock wouldn't come close to going in the inlet and wouldn't cock after I got it in, it does now.

ozarkokie:
I have built, and shot muzzleloader for 35 years. One thing I ran into when a hammer didn't aligh it was because the inletting was too deep and the lock plate was recessed instead of flush with the stock. You can shim it with paper or such but if you grease the lock you can put epoxy around the edges of the inlet and put the lock in place tightened to wher it aligns. Sort of same as glass bedding a barrel on a modern rifle.

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