Main Discussion Area > Flintknapping
preforms VS rough
Sleddman:
Redwasp, On the copper boppers. I only fill the cap half way with lead. It seems that using too much lead leads to heavy strikes and too much energy trancferring into the stone causing more breakage. try to keep the handles shorter too, so you don't start using the boppers like a hammer. Hold the bopper just under the copper cap and you will find you will have more accuracy and better luck. Sleddman
redwasp:
hey sleddman, In the book the art of flintknapping. D.C. said that you could soak spalls of Georgetown and make 1/4 less in hardness. How long do you have to let soak? Or, is that a material that really needs to be heated. I cant hit hard enough I guess. ;)
mullet:
I slice and grind preforms to make my rock stretch farther.
Wolf Watcher:
Redwasp: Every one of us has his own tools, tricks, things that work for us. I use some really off the wall crude tools when I am in a hurry to make some hunting points. I am losing the wrist strength I used to have so use a couple of different Ishi sticks when flaking and notching! I have lots of elk, deer, hard drawn copper wire, a small moose horn that I am willing to send to you if you would like. I've never considered myself a flintknapper as I never really had access to flint, but have made lots of different things out of the other materials. Some one like cowboy could give you better flint knapping advice. Watcher
redwasp:
thanks wolf watcher, anything that you are willing to send me would be great.. I find the beauty of a well made stone point well..... simply amazing and I have become obsessed with learning this ancient skill. I ordered "Lap Knapping" with craig ratzat.. and some obsidian preforms. Hopefully, after I have viewed the dvd I will be able to understand making platforms because my points stack baaaaadddd. LOL.. Thanks to all of you for your advice. I did make one point out of a glass bottle bottom and it is very crude and dull and the edge looks like a winding river but it didnt break lol..
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