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Elasticity versus poundage

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BowEd:
Yes gfugal I think you are right.Bone and antler are stiffer but not as elastic though.Denser wood can be used too but not as elastic again.

Stick Bender:
Hey Ed sense you used the same core wood on both  and I know you didn't tiller the core but what wood your ruff guess be on the core only draw weight  differences between the 2  I'm just curious I know it's not scientific but you have a good feel for weight ?

Aaron H:
Very cool Ed, what is the core wood?  Did you groove the horn and core before glue up?  What glue did you use?

gfugal:
That's some crazy reflex you have there  :o. I hope it strings good for you. It should bend pretty good if it has that much composite material. What draw are you going for?

BowEd:
Ritch....Actually I tillered the core to brace...that's it... like the other.I want a nice even bend reflected when reverse bracing.The actual draw weight I could not say.It was'nt much that's for sure.Under 20#'s I'm sure @ 28".A hint of poundage would be to say it was 5/16" at the fade thickness and tapered from there.1/4" mid limb and so on.The previous one was 1/16" thicker overall and probably come closer to a 20# bow at 28".
Aaron H....The core is hickory again.Shagbark.Very thin ringed.No I did not groove the core or the horn on this one.To glue the horn onto the core I used smooth on epoxy...I know I know not hide glue???It can be used of course.Smooth on is not given it's proper due far as I'm concerned as far as taking a bend if put on thin enough but not dry jointed.Others have used it too in these profiles.Plus it cures within 24 hours too and is virtually bullet proof to enviornmental influences.It can be done also according to the directions on the can to be more heat resistant too.2 partsA to 1 partB then heat cured 2 hours@ 250 degrees will withstand temps up to 217 degrees F.The rest of the bow is sinew and hide glue.A pic as to how I applied the horn to core.

The horn is tapered first before glueing up.I  then heat bend the horn first to fit right up the fades to the belly of the handle first using a traced out profile of the curve transferred to a piece of pine.C clamped first then inner tube wrapped the rest of the way.It's best to wrap the bow with saran wrap first before wrapping with the inner tube to save your inner tube wrapping.I'm told and believe it to be true putting the horn on in a fairly flat profile especially these longer working limbs.Each limb might have around 14" working limb.So that the sheer forces are lateral along the limb.Reducing chances of delamination.These things I take their word for and sorta understand and so far nothing has come apart.
This bow is not going to be under the stress of reflex that a Turkish horn bow would be either but in the past I've tested these to be right up there performance wise.

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