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Questions and comments on the best sinew and hide glue.

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loefflerchuck:
I've made my own glue from sinew scraps and hide many times. I've always heard 12 hour glue made at home is far superior to commercial glue. From my experience a 315 gram strength glue I buy from a furniture supply works better than my slow cook glue. I would love some help with making better glue.
 My method. 1-soak sinew scraps in a few changes of dish soap and hot water to try and remove oils. 2 cook glue for 10-12 hours at about 160f for first poring. I've brought the glue to a rolling boil to skim off the bubbles of impurities that come to the top. Sometimes I have not. Just straining it through cloth and screen to dry. The glue is very clear and looks good but does not hold like the 315g glue I buy for high stressed horn bows.
 I am asking on hornbow page because I need the best glue. Even the worst glue I have made holds sinew to wood. Only the best splices horn and holds sinew to a huge reflexed horn bow. I would love some composite makers help on this.
 One more question. Would making your glue at high altitude yield a better and more pure glue? At say 8000 or even 10,000 feet water boils at a lower temp so the impurities could be skimmed off at a lower boiling temp.
Thanks
Chuck

BowEd:
I make my sinew and hide glue the very same way but do not boil it towards the end.I have used a canvas sizing brand glue too on one backward C shape cured bow.The horn to core joinery held good to brace from extreme near handle reflex using the tepeliks.The usual time it should break apart.The sinew tore though.It was cured for over 2 years.I have not used my first pouring yet of sinew and hide glue to comment on.I'm personally going to try air bladder glue to mix in too.
Can't comment farther on the subject but there are others on here who can.I think they are mixing in home made air bladder glue too.
 

loefflerchuck:
Thanks Beadman. The last 2 batches I made I did not boil towards the end. The sinew tore? I heard of that happening one other time but the sinew he used was very crushed in processing. I think it was pounded with a rock. Did your sinew actually tear or did it lift on a seam?

BowEd:
Actually Chuck I sent my horn bow cured to England to Mike to tiller for me.I was stigmatized by making those tepeliks.He had been through it before making horn bows.I'm sure he'll comment on the glue question.He showed me a picture of what happened.It looked like it tore.Tips are'nt set back near enough.First attempt over 2 yeas ago.It's 52" TTT.Hickory/horn/sinew/mulberry sijahs.Next one tips are set back a lot better.Mike has that now too to sinew.Ironwood/horn/sinew/edge grain red elm horn inserted tips sijahs.48" TTT.



Sizing that horn I used very thin multiple sizings to get into every crevice.Sanding inbetween.

BowEd:
This was bow before it was braced.

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