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Questions and comments on the best sinew and hide glue.

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BowEd:

--- Quote from: mikekeswick on April 05, 2017, 03:01:09 am ---I think you are getting it too hot.
I make my glue at no higher temperature than 55 deg Celsius/131f. I also only heat sinew glue for 6 hours.
I don't use hide as it is so greasy.
Air bladders from the Yellow Croaker are superb for glue, they 'melt' at lower temperature and in less time. 3 - 4 hours is enough.

--- End quote ---
Mike....The amount of water used then cannot be much at those temps and time periods.I'm in the process of getting air bladders.Yellow croaker and catfish.Will use lower temps in the future.
gorazd....Yes the sinew may have been compromised before applying it too.Or tore so to speak.I know on that bow I put far too much sizing on over the finished job.Reason for cracking on the top layer too.

BowEd:
There are plenty of videos showing the process of making sinew/hide/or air bladder glue but not of it being put to the test.I think as clear as possible/no odor product is a good indicator of strength.
I'd have to agree about hide glue being a bit more greasy.
Pre soaking the glue in a mild mixture of lye to plump it up to break down quicker I have not tried yet.Could easily be something to that.
These tests being done on the strength of the glue.Are they wood edge glueing then seeing if delamination occurs?

gorazd:


Beadman :

I dont know how others are doing - I only looked at some videos on Youtube .... one Turks obviously dont remove shorter (and damaged) fibres from bigger bundle ,... but seems that Koreans remove shorter ones - and put them in thin uniform layers

So I washed the sinew strands (to get them very very soft and pliable) and peeled the wet strands to get very small diameter (less than 1mm) and removed every shorter strand - very time consuming - so ALL my strands were equall length... I noticed that quite a few strands are not so strong as other - I tested with puling with small force and removed breaked ones

Sinew which was naturaly dried  (from my butcher source - cow, young beef) does have less damaged fibers  than sinew I have got from pet-shop (Ostrich and cow sinew - tendons) which obviusly was in some hot air drying oven ... even when on first look they seemed OK (when breaking them apart in dryed state) -> some of them just poped when I wetted them !
 

DC:
I don't have a lot of experience with this but when I was cooking up my dog chew hide glue I watched carefully for oil/grease floating on the top and there was none. I'm thinking that they maybe do some kind of treatment to get rid of the oils. Less stink for when the dog chews one on the living room couch ;)

BowEd:
Mike....I hope your right about this yellow croaker.Reducing easier then sinew.
My sinew before heating it were scraps of course[waste] and reduced very thin.
I will cut up these yellow croaker bladders very small to find out.Then use less water and heat for a shorter period of time.
DC...I think the dog chew things are soaked in some sort of chemical to make them more pleasant.What usually comes up floating when ever I do sinew is just a little foam in the center of the pot.Not much and nothing very foul at all.It gets skimmed off.
gorazd....Dried sinew tendons can naturally dry very hard just from air exposure.I've always pounded my sinew with a hammer and on a metal door weight too.Reducing stable strong strands to less then 1/16".Same length piles divided up into 4 or 5 piles.It could easily be the back of the bow should of had more of a crown.The core was slightly crowned and a flat grain belly piece of wood.

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