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maple cores

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BowEd:
Hello fellas....I've acquired some maple from a gracious fellow bowyer upstatebowyer.Sent them to me roughed out with the bark popped off nicely.I've trimmed them down now for cores.They are sugar or hard maple from 8" logs but still fairly flat as narrow as they are.As with other maple I've seen the backs are sort of a muscled look.Not smooth I mean like most woods.Will that hurt to sand smooth that all out?It might violate things I'm sure.Maybe do that after the ksan eye bend is put in.I plan for 3 piece horn bows.
I know steam bending them for my kasan eye bends for the sijahs is best done while they are fairly wet yet but I usually don't have any problem steam bending wood of this type so after they are dry I want to dry heat correct any propellers and undulations out of these on a flat 2" by 4" first then steam bend my bends in.
Think I'm on the right track or procedure here but are there any other thoughts.I don't want to mess these up.Pictures show dimensions they are.Top number is length and bottom number is width.Thickness on all three are a good 1/2" thick.I plan to groove these also.Done that before a couple of times.

Stick Bender:
Those are some nice looking core staves  you have there Ed  looking forward to your future post on how it goes I know that's how Adam does his , but have seen it done with core slats already dimensioned close, I wonder if thin core slats are that difficult to bend the Kasan eye with out splinters done like Jeff Schmidt ?

BowEd:
I think a strong 1/2" thickness before bending is very doable.Then shaping them to my liking.

davidjw:
Those look mighty nice indeed! Keeping the cores thick helps a lot when gluing up the horn, either with rope or c-clamps, and 1/2" is not too thick to get some tight bends if needed.  I usually bend them as green as possible though, after soaking in water until they sink, then leave them clamped in the form for 6 months and any twist is taken care of.

Aaron H:
Those look like some nice clean laths.  Good work upstate

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