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Acceptable amount of set
Mo_coon-catcher:
That running loop string is what I have for the bow. After I started cuttin them in I noticed there wasn't muchh meat there so I swapped over to that string type. I need to adjust the shape of my drill bit to get a bit more depth I to the horn. It's a 1/2" spade bit and I think o shaped it out a bit too blunt. So that in not much distance the wood starts to thin down pretty quick. I didn't know there was a difference I. Cow and buffalo horn for nocks. I always thought th cow looked better and that's why it was done.
Think the horn will hold up with a cinching loop on each side, or should I jus remove these tips and start over?
Then I need to finish up some arrows to try it out. I've got some 1/2" hickory tapered to 3/8" nocks. I still need to glue in the horn inserts, ice got some cow horn for that. And I'm waiting jn some ingredients I ordered for a verdigris glue that's on the englishwarbow society website. Then I'll fletch and make some bodkins.
Kyle
Del the cat:
One thing to note is that on a well made nock the groove is a decent way up from where the limb meets the nock. If the groove is too low it can just split out, gotta remember horn has grain same as wood. I've had to repair a few poorly made nocks.
Del
WillS:
--- Quote from: Mo_coon-catcher on July 28, 2017, 08:27:34 am ---That running loop string is what I have for the bow. After I started cuttin them in I noticed there wasn't muchh meat there so I swapped over to that string type. I need to adjust the shape of my drill bit to get a bit more depth I to the horn. It's a 1/2" spade bit and I think o shaped it out a bit too blunt. So that in not much distance the wood starts to thin down pretty quick. I didn't know there was a difference I. Cow and buffalo horn for nocks. I always thought th cow looked better and that's why it was done.
Think the horn will hold up with a cinching loop on each side, or should I jus remove these tips and start over?
Then I need to finish up some arrows to try it out. I've got some 1/2" hickory tapered to 3/8" nocks. I still need to glue in the horn inserts, ice got some cow horn for that. And I'm waiting jn some ingredients I ordered for a verdigris glue that's on the englishwarbow society website. Then I'll fletch and make some bodkins.
Kyle
--- End quote ---
Oh cool, that's my verdigris recipe on the EWBS site, glad it's being used! Gimme a shout if you have any issues.
Personally I'd do the nocks again, as I've had so many split like that myself. With cinching loops you will probably be fine, but then you've got to tackle the issue of unbracing one of them. I still can't do it myself, which is why I use a cinching loop on the bottom, and a normal loop on the top.
Mo_coon-catcher:
Awesome, I was wondering if that was you. Ill let you know what o think when I try it. I usually coat the bindings with clear nail polish, I feel like the compound will be Quicker and easier once I get the feel for it. I'll let you know what I think when I try it.
Think id be safe to go with buffalo horn, I can easily go to a local store and pick it up. Cow horn Id have to order. I ordered a pair from 3rivers. One was solid enough to use, the other was thib walled clear to the tip. I've been playing with the cinch loop, I made my steing so that it tapered immediately out of the loop. So to loosen Itll be sliding down the taper. It's still difficult though.
Kyle
WillS:
Buff horn is safe, you just gotta be super careful how and where you cut the nock. We're all still trying to find the best method to make these things work, so every bit of new info people can add the better. If you find a working method for modern strings on a heavy bow by all means share the heck out of it. Linen or hemp strings are very different and require a different approach of course.
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