Reflex - Recurve question

[hoosierf]

Can I introduce some reflex in a white oak stave back closer to the fades instead of just flipping the tips?  62" tip to tip, 2.5" wide in a pyramid style with 22" working limb, 6" stiff tips and a stiff handle. Not sure on backing yet, but I'm thinking linen. I have reflexed mid limb many times but I am rarely impressed with the impact on performance so I was wondering about heating some in close to the fades.

Thx,

Gary

[Marc St Louis]

The more reflex you add close to the handle the more unstable a bow becomes to the point where it may try to flip or twist sideways

[Pat B]

You can add it evenly along the limbs.

[Wooden Spring]

I have a 2x6 form that I used to use quite a bit that is essentially a long arc, 6 feet long, and 3 inches high in the center that I would glue up my back and belly on. It made a bow that had an even reflex throughout the entire length of the bow. Works like a charm if that's what you want. It makes the tillering a little bit more challenging though since this is really going to stiffen up your limbs, but its not too bad to work with, and it can really make for some fast shooting bows too.

[PatM]

If you try to introduce reflex into the fade area you will in all likelihood separate the riser between the growth rings.

 Is your typical reflex not holding?

[hoosierf]

My mid limb reflex always seems to relax too much. My flipped tips have held pretty well but I've had limited success dry heat bending oak but that was red oak. I think I'll give flipped tips a go with this white oak stave and see how it takes the heat.

Appreciate the feedback on my original idea relative to the fades.

Gary

[leonwood]

Adding reflex before or during tillering is one thing but keeping it until you are finished tillering is the key. If your reflex midlimb does not keep it probably means your limbs bend a little too much there and too little out of the fades. Try to get the whole limb bending and distribute the stresses along the whole limb evenly