Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
holly bow loosely based on x-1-3
FilipT:
Was 28" maximum draw of that particular bow found on MR? Also, was bow (yours and MR) supposed to be 40 x 30 mm tapering to 15 mm tips? What poundage do you expect?
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: Stalker on August 27, 2017, 04:16:54 pm ---Was 28" maximum draw of that particular bow found on MR? Also, was bow (yours and MR) supposed to be 40 x 30 mm tapering to 15 mm tips? What poundage do you expect?
--- End quote ---
Impossible to answer... But
I can only find 2 bows in Weapons of Warre that are shorter than 70", the shortest be 68.75" and I think these may be incomplete as, in the text it says the shortest is 1839 mm (approx 72") so yours is shorter.
The arrows were have two main lengths, clustered around 31" and 28" so I think it's reasonable to assume the shorter arrows would be shot from the shorter bow.
Of course no one actually knows.
Del
PS, your post suggests you have scaled down the X1-3 dimension, in which case, presumably you should scale down the draw length too
PPS. Regarding tiller, I'd suggest you just have the stiffer limb as the lower, if neither is stiffer, then leave it be...
Badger:
I can't figure out why you would get a false sense of draw weight from the long string. I get about the same readings on the long string as I do on the braced bow, slight difference but close enough. In the last couple of years I started increasing my time on the long string and for me I get less set. If a bow takes set and is tillered properly it simply means we were asking too much from the wood or the wood is not dry enough. Once I come off the long sting and go to full brace I don't go right to full draw, I work my way back up checking for weight losses as I go.
Del the cat:
--- Quote from: Badger on August 28, 2017, 11:53:01 am --- I can't figure out why you would get a false sense of draw weight from the long string. I get about the same readings on the long string as I do on the braced bow, slight difference but close enough. In the last couple of years I started increasing my time on the long string and for me I get less set. If a bow takes set and is tillered properly it simply means we were asking too much from the wood or the wood is not dry enough. Once I come off the long sting and go to full brace I don't go right to full draw, I work my way back up checking for weight losses as I go.
--- End quote ---
With a warbow it can take over 100# to pull the tips back fare enough to brace it and this make you think you are way over weight... but then you get the string on at brace and you find the damn thing is nearly finished.
Maybe it's 'cos I don't look at draw length on the long string so much, because I don't trust it... just a matter of perception maybe?
This video shows what I mean...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGKt8bEa-Ig&list=PLBz2tD9476KRkSOSICLsc-zj5ADyPKLZB&t=29s&index=3
This post from my blog shows that the stresses on the bow are different between long and short string at the same poundage.
https://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/yew-afb-long-vs-short-string.html
I s'pose we all have our methods and we tend to stick with what we know...
Del
WillS:
--- Quote from: Badger on August 28, 2017, 11:53:01 am --- I can't figure out why you would get a false sense of draw weight from the long string. I get about the same readings on the long string as I do on the braced bow, slight difference but close enough. In the last couple of years I started increasing my time on the long string and for me I get less set. If a bow takes set and is tillered properly it simply means we were asking too much from the wood or the wood is not dry enough. Once I come off the long sting and go to full brace I don't go right to full draw, I work my way back up checking for weight losses as I go.
--- End quote ---
That's interesting, as I'm almost exactly the opposite :D
I never use a long string unless the stave is particularly awkward looking - weird dips of reflex or strange wonky bits - and simply make sure my tapers are as good as possible first. It gets braced to full height at that point, and tweaked until the shape is right, then taken to full draw (or actually an inch or two less than full draw and shot at full draw only) the first time it's on the tiller in one pull, possibly stopping around 25" to do heat treatment or if I see something odd happening.
Personally I feel that the longer a bow is "tortured" on a tiller, drawn inch by inch and "exercised" the more the wood is being taught to prefer being drawn than being straight which is of course the opposite of what we want.
I cannot possibly prove it however - I just think my bows have gotten better since choosing to abandon the long string and slow, creeping tillering that I was doing before! It would be really interesting to compare performance in two identical bows, one tillered inch by inch and one tapered perfectly to begin with, and taken to full draw immediately.
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