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Dogwwoods

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BowEd:
Seems every few years I need to replenish some dogwood arrows.I just really like them as an arrow shaft.Arrow making is'nt my most favorite thing to do but when in the mood to do it I gotta strike while the mood is hot.I finalize reduce them with a speed drill in a vise with reduced grit paper using a grain weight scale and a spine tester checking them.Starting with 36 grit all the way down to 220 grit.Before that from prestraightening and nubbin sanding I just scrape the bark off with a knife or I use a meat cleaver.Onto the work bench and full length reduce evenly with a 6" block of 2"by4" with 36 grit paper.It gets me in the ball park.Tedious laborous process but worth the effort.It's ok to take a few minor wiggles out during that process.Does'nt hurt the final product.
From left to right 2 future bundles of seven close to dimensions but not finished yet.I like to let them season as long as I can in a straight bundle.
Then some finished field tip arrows and some broad head arrows.Really like to full length taper these.Usually 5/16" to 11/32" or 23/64".They shoot great.
Up top my aladin lamp with a straightener for the kinks I got from someone on the PA here in a trade or a gift.Thank you very much!Seems over the years I'm shooting a little lower poundage bows so these came in at 30" long TTT @ 550 to 580 grain with 145 grain field tips or broad heads @ 50 to 55 spine using FF string @ a 28" draw.4.25" long feathers/5 degree helical/5/8" at their tallest point.Balance point on these is 4" ahead of or towards the tip of center then.


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I should show this tool too.A sizer from an elk antler.Helps to get in to the ball park.Not all dogwoods are naturally tapered so with the more parallel shaft in the speed drill I sand 1/3 out from nock and back.Then out 2/3rds' and back then out full length to the tip and back and establish my taper.Then it's just a matter of taking material off overall to your spine weight you want.Just like tapering a lamination for a laminated bow.This all is just my way that I like.None of this is written in stone and made other ways too.

DC:
Very nice set! I'll have to step up my game. :D

Aaron H:
Thanks for the insight Ed.  So you clamp your drill in a vise with a shaft chucked in the drill?  Do you have anything supporting the opposite end while sanding?

Btw, I have one of those straighteners also, they work great.

BowEd:
Aaron....I start with 32"shafts when they go in the chuck of the drill.Make sure the shaft is in the chuck as far as it can.The fat or tip end goes in there.By then 3/8" or a scooch less in diameter to fit.I clamp the handle of the screw gun securely in the vice.I support the other end with my hand that has sand paper in it starting at the nock end kind of wrapping and pinching the shaft.Usually 4 layers thick so it has some stiffness and body.I push the button on it's highest speed on the screw gun with my left hand and sand with my right hand.
I know people are gonna say oh it goes flippy floppy but for me it does'nt.Not at full speed.It can get floppy when it is'nt in the chuck far enough.A person just adjusts accordingly.It's not that hard to do.One thing it might help to wear a glove.It can get hot.Not always though.
Was that you Aaron that gave me that straightener?
It can seem that perfection is a disease at times[a communical one] or an obsession you might call it especially on a site like this called the primitive archer.I tell ya though if the natives had these tools they would of used them.I'm sure it would of made life easier for them.Bottom lime is they are made from natural materials yet in my mind.Although I'm not experiencing the total effect of the process using modern tools.Seems I lose or break arrows so much I've learned to do it easier.I do understand the things that need to be on a good arrow though even in a primitive situation.

Aaron H:
Thanks for the explanation Ed. You didn't get the straightener from me, I just saw similar ones watching a few Korean arrow making videos, and then copied theirs.

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