Main Discussion Area > Arrows
Spine question
BowEd:
--- Quote from: Pat B on September 05, 2017, 02:56:18 pm ---DC, Art(artcher1) went all out with arrows. He understands arrows and arrow making like nobody else I know. Unfortunately his health isn't good and he hasn't been around for a few years now. Art scraped the whole cane shaft so they were the same stiffness all around.
Not only cane but hardwood shoot arrows also need for the stiff side against the bow. If possible, Art told me to put the second stiffest side to the shelf(down). That isn't always possible though. Even doweled arrows have a stiffer side which is along one of the grain edge sides. With dowels you also have to consider the grain "flames" so if the arrow breaks when shot it doesn't drive the broken shaft into your bow arm.
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DC......Now Pat B is explaining with edge grain or split timber shafts there is a rift[feathering out side]and an edge gran[straight lined side].You want the edge grain against the bow and the rift side on your knuckle side with the points pointing at you.In case the arrow does brake the points can't stab your hand.
willie:
Aaron, that does make sense, all other things being equal, but as dc point out, a bit hard to determine beforehand. I suppose out of round would be a bigger factor as is the case with some of my bamboo.
My previous replies were not "bamboo specific", just generalities I guess.
--- Quote ---It definitely matters. That's what's bothering me. I've got this arrow just about even now. It shoots a little nock left no matter which way I shoot it. Scraping the compression side of the strong bend is bringing it around
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DC, I am having a bit of a difficulty understanding. Are you describing the left/right orientation of the way the arrow sticks in the target? How are the groupings relative to your aiming point or the groups of fletched arrows?
DC:
the left/right orientation of the way the arrow sticks in the target. I can't really go by grouping. My"groups" usually take the whole face of the target. I can't count on any consistency.
willie:
well, I should have not questioned you so much, your earlier description seems just fine. It's just that I was reading a bareshaft method that is more about group locations than knock orientations.
--- Code: ---http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
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For a selfbow, I would find point on aiming to be more desirable than having perfectly straight nonfletched flight at extremely close range. That might just be something for the centershot/plunger button guys.
Aaron H:
--- Quote from: DC on September 05, 2017, 02:46:12 pm ---
--- Quote from: Aaron H on September 05, 2017, 02:27:36 pm ---I would think that with bamboo, the difference in stiffness lies in the uneven wall thickness.
Maybe try an experiment on a particular shaft where there is drastic difference in stiffness from one side to the other, mark the stiff side, then cut the bamboo shaft in half lengthwise along that stiff side line. When you open it up, see if there is a noticeable difference in wall thickness from the stiff side to the weak side (possibly using a set of calipers). If there is a difference, I would then use that to determine which side to scrape. It would make sense to me that you would want to even out the wall thickness for consistency.
Does that make sense to anyone?
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Once I split it in half it's a bit late to scrape :D I see your point though.
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Haha, I guess I meant to use it to help you with the others
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