Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
European beech suitable?
meanewood:
Three things have changed since that photo.
I have even less hair!
I may have put on a few pounds.
I don't tiller warbows to that shape anymore. I tried to follow the shape that Roy King was using when he was doing those 'Mary Rose' replica's that were shown in Hardy's book, Longbow.
Marc St Louis:
--- Quote from: meanewood on October 11, 2017, 02:51:34 am ---Hi Del
Sorry links are a bit beyond me.
Page 8 will become post 111 when I post this, subject - arrow weight.
Just to add, the 4 bows I made 3-4 years ago were from a nice board that produced a set of arrows as well!
I used a flat back and rounded belly profile and for the most part got away with it.
Two of the bows developed some very faint crystals which have not caused any issue to date.
One other developed a deeper one, probably due to carelessness when tillering. I decided to cover that crystal with a nydam style binding and have had no issues with that either.
If I was to use beech again, I'd adopt a more rounded back and flatter belly, much like other white woods.
--- End quote ---
If you used a board then how can you be sure it was European Beech and not American Beech?
meanewood:
Hi Marc
European Beech was stamped on the board by the specialist timber supplier I got it from.
I did buy another short piece from them to make some arrows but I can't remember what was stamped on that. It had a more reddish colour but was also beech!
FilipT:
No I am not sure whether should I cut some beech or not. Maybe you were lucky OR maybe it is a good wood choice!
cadet:
Beech was/is typically used in planes because it is hard, and because of the high proportion of medullary rays which effectively present wear-resistant end-grain to the sole of the plane; that high proportion of medullary rays may be problematic on the back of a bow?
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