Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Hazel longbow, 100# @ 28"
FilipT:
Slightly related topic for which I don't want open new thread.
Could arrows be made from wooden dowels you can see in stores? I read discussions about them and opinions vary. People say only if the grain runs along the length of the dowel, which makes sense. But then again, when you taper them or make them barreled, grain always ends tapered.
So, yes or no? These are the cheapest solution I could get in order to have warbow arrows.
JNystrom:
--- Quote from: FilipT on October 20, 2017, 10:21:05 am ---Slightly related topic for which I don't want open new thread.
Could arrows be made from wooden dowels you can see in stores? I read discussions about them and opinions vary. People say only if the grain runs along the length of the dowel, which makes sense. But then again, when you taper them or make them barreled, grain always ends tapered.
So, yes or no? These are the cheapest solution I could get in order to have warbow arrows.
--- End quote ---
Sure you can. Just make sure at least couple of rings go fully end to end. It might be hard to estimate the spine of dowels in store, but it would be best to have at least 12mm of thickness from where to work down.
--- Quote from: Badger on October 18, 2017, 03:40:09 pm ---
--- Quote from: Del the cat on October 18, 2017, 12:44:46 pm ---Not me, just not my thing.
Old English saying "you don't fatten a pig by weighing it" ;)
Del
--- End quote ---
I do religiously on ELBs, war bows or anything over 100# tend to do better coming in a bit lighter than suggested. I was working on an 85# bow today, with the tiller I was planning on using the suggested mass was 23 oz. The mass was dropping as I tillered so I lowered my target to 70#, bow came out beautiful at 20 oz. I am almost always working with different woods and different weights and the mass program is pretty good at letting me know how my design is working out and what I can expect. It also helps me get it right sometimes on the second attempt. If I start off too narrow I just have to go with what I have but if I start off too wide I can always narrow it as I go.
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I agree, the mass princible is a nice tool to see where you are going. I think it suits the most a beginner, but also advanced. I tend to get some confidence from it, when im having the first 100lb+ pulls in the tiller tree, closing my eyes and waiting for the bang. :laugh: I got 2 staves roughed which are 40 oz in weight and plenty wide, so only the sky is a limit!
FilipT:
I would also make a spine tester so I could know what I am working with. Funnily, the mass calculator says that this hazel bow should produce 140#! It is 1010 grams now, but I doubt it is really that strong as I could bend limbs a little by floor tillering and you probably can't do that with high poundage bows.
JNystrom:
+1 for spine tester. The mass calculator is quite exact, it's just you apparently have a too wide profile. My friend has a 110 pound hickory bow, which weights like 160 pound bow. :D Its 40mm+ wide, even though the bow could be 30-35mm wide...
This is because adding thickness, is way more weight-efficient, than adding width. Mass principle makes you drive for more efficient, but still safe bow!
FilipT:
Makes sense, as bow is 40 mm wide. I went for that width because hazel needs to be a bit wider. I won't narrow it down as I like overall proportions.
How is hickory when made into warbow? Does it have handshock and is physically heavy or your friend has a flatbow of that poundage?
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