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Hazel longbow, 100# @ 28"

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Del the cat:
That's looking better, just scraping away tool marks and rounding the corners off (especially at the tips .. last 8" or so) will help gain the last inches of draw.
I'd then get some arrows through it to give it a chance to settle and then have another look at it.
If the right limb is the upper, you could round those corners just a bit more which will help give it a hint more bend and will take some stress off the left limb.
Tiny changes will effect the balance and tiller, it doesn't take much to fine tune a bow at this stage.
Del

FilipT:
Will do that, except shooting. I don't have suitable arrows yet and this string might not be best choice for shooting this kind of bow. That is why I am ordering soon feathers, string material and some other things to make arrows suitable for these higher weights.

FilipT:
I scraped both limbs, made the bend more circular but I think left limb is a bit stiffer; scraped the tips too and center to bring limbs down more. I think the tiller is good but not total perfect. I rasped the radii on the edges and sanded the bow to 400 grit. After everything was done, bow showed 100# at 28" draw. After I make arrow pass mark I will coat the bow with beeswax. Tomorrow you will get more pictures, it's raining outside so I couldn't shoot some photos.

Question: what to do about arrow pass? What are materials that could be put there and are easy to obtain? I thought about putting piece of horn from arrow nocks reinforcement.

DIMENSIONS:
Length nock to nock: 70"
Length tip to tip: 72"
Width at center: 34 mm (1,33")
Thickness at center: 24 mm (0,94")
Set: 21 mm (0,83")
Width profile is gradual taper to the tips.

FULL DRAW


UNBRACED PROFILE

Del the cat:
For an arrow pass, horn, bone, antler, mother of pearl or nothing at all.
You only really need an arrow pass if you are shooting heavy arrows with binding on the fletchings as these can rip into soft wood.
Someone will tell you that this isn't true, but I've had to put arrow passes onto Yew Warbows that have been severely worn so I know it to be true.
Good job with the bow, it's not easy to get 100# from a piece of Hazel :)
BTW, funny how subjective it is, I'd say right is still very slightly stiffer especially in the outer third. Over all much better and looking good, get some arrows through it and review it after a month's shooting to see if the tiller has shifted :)
Del

WillS:
Make your arrows well and you don't need an arrow pass.  They weren't used historically because authentic arrows have the bindings sealed under wax or resin.  Make them with thick ugly binding and you might want one.

It's a Victorian addition and considering how you're using sidenocks it would be pretty weird to have an arrow pass as well, but that's just my opinion.

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