Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Hazel longbow, 100# @ 28"
FilipT:
I thought about arrow pass because if I don't put anything, how I will know where to put arrows? Is there a way to mark the center or that pass without arrow scraping it off? I thought about india ink but this will surely come off after repeated shooting. That is the only reason why I mentioned arrow pass.
When you mention "sealed", you are thinking about verdigris compound that is in thickness just over the binding, right? I would like to make my first arrows with this stuff.
Del, that outer third houses this kink you can see on unbraced profile; I was a bit afraid it would ruin the tiller if I concentrate too much on that area so I left it a bit stiffer.
WillS:
One easy and authentic method is just to use pure beeswax under the fletchings, bind them into it with strong silk and gently heat the wax afterwards. It will melt slightly, coating the bindings and set into a hard layer over them.
The easiest way of marking the arrow pass is simply to scratch a small mark in the wood. That's how the MR bows were marked. You could also burn a simple design in, or just draw/paint something.
FilipT:
Apart from bindings, do you coat the rest of the arrow with beeswax, do these arrows have any coat for protection or are they just bare wood?
I think I will just heat the head of some big nail and press into the wood.
WillS:
We've currently got no evidence that any arrow shafts were sealed or coated with anything. Burnishing usually does enough, and some common arrow shaft woods are extremely rot resistant, such as aspen. Obviously not an issue to them, but sometimes you'll find the arrows get muddy and dirty with lots of shooting, so a modern finish like oil might be an option, depending how authentic you wish to get!
FilipT:
Interesting, makes sense. This winter I am getting into serious arrow making haha.
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