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Hazel longbow, 100# @ 28"

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FilipT:
I read that before and I will try to put the string as soon as I establish good enough bend at brace height.

stuckinthemud:
If you do that it will already be too weak.  If you have plotted good tapers then you must trust them and put a string and pulley on it and use that to get it to brace

FilipT:
Actually I even used calipers to check the initial taper! That is a little engineer in my doing haha. So your idea is immediately brace height? I have never done that before and honestly I am a bit afraid.

Del the cat:
Yup.. it's always scary but if you pull to full target weight on a "just long enough to get it on" string, that is less stress than full weight at brace, so it won't hurt the bow (IF the tiller is ok.... you stop short if you spot a problem with the tiller).
If you don't pull full weigh you just end up with an under weight bow...
You get a lot of people trying for 100# but only pulling to 40#.... then they are surprised when they end up with a 40# bow  ::)
Del

FilipT:
So the method is using the shortest string as possible ("just long enough to get it on"), pulling it to intended weight, checking the tiller, bracing it and then going to the full draw? Or I got something wrong?
Is that because of what you said in your yew warbow youtube series, that when you get to brace, bow is already "finished"?

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