Main Discussion Area > English Warbow
Hazel longbow, 100# @ 28"
FilipT:
I have something like that at home, but how much "draw" this thing can get? I know you can use it, and I have personally use it for tying things but it never had big range of motion.
willie:
remove the long strap, wind your parachute cord on the spool
JNystrom:
Well that ratchet would work. Didn't even cross my mind earlier. If you make a lot of heavy longbows, you will enjoy a winch like Del's.
Also the problem with normal step on stringing is that i tend to be a bit scared of pulling the bow towards me. They haven't smacked me YET, though...
WillS:
You really need to just get used to bracing heavy bows, if you want to make them. Even if your bow is currently 120lb that's a very easy weight to brace with the right technique. It's still within the limit for bracing without a stringer, as well. Not the knee method, but the step through works well, as do a few others.
If 120lb is causing these issues, what happens if you want to make a 150lb, or 170lb bow? Can't use winches and pulleys when you're shooting. Also, don't worry about winches and ratchets for tillering - they tend to just make it too slow and can sometimes even get stuck. Set up a good pulley system and tiller the bow with a strong rope. You can feel what's happening far easier, pull as quick or slowly as you like and it's a much more organic and healthy way of drawing the bow.
WillS:
Oh, and you don't need a second groove for the stringer. Once you're back to brace the horn nocks should go on, and the stringer should be made with slipknots each end. They slide over the horns, and tighten as the horn widens towards the bow tip. They'll sit firmly and won't slip further down, so you can cut just one groove in the horn instead of two. They never look right with two, when you're making sidenocks.
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