Main Discussion Area > Horn Bows

First attempt build a long !

<< < (3/18) > >>

gorazd:
I   sand all the ridges/cracks away to get the flat outside  - BEFORE the cuting of the horn .... it  is easier to prepare the strips afterwards
Then I sand them on the belt to get them almost the same thickens (+- 1mm) ,
THEN cut them to the same width and length...

Then heat bend them to be almost flat...
And finally attach them to flat surface and scrap them with razor blade to get them the same thicness (on the same length positions - they are tapered from 5.5mm to 3mm at the tip - depends from horn)

Doing the final check with caliper ruler - 0,1mm !

Bjoern Sofeit:
Use a leather or wooden spacer with the clamp, you don't want marks or damage on the horn.

Stick Bender:
Thanks Fellas I also have these 2 sets that I could use the shorter ones I could for sure get 17 in. The longer ones probably 21 in at 1 3/8 in they would be more work at this point but wonder in terms of going into the fades like BowEds bow it would give me more working limb ? But would rather put the work in now then run into issues down the line ?

BowEd:
The fades part that's glued down is heat bent a little to conform to better to eleviate the risk of cracking then while being clamped and thin enough around 1/8" thick prior to glueing and clamping.That's all done with a dry run clamping prior to actual glue up on the type of bow I made.Your longer horns there should do the job.
Preperation of thickness mentioned is a superb way of doing it too.

Stick Bender:
 On straitening these horns it was mentioned some use steam with steam only being 212 Deg F  I'm wondering when I use dry heat to bend these slightly with the fixture if I apply dry heat at about the same temp will that work ? I'm just trying to use as minimal heat as possible on these horns and just bent enough to glue to the feed table ?

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version